#11 The Class of 2020, Margarita 2.0, An Alsatian Duet… And All That Leisure

In this spring of virtual commencements, the graduates earn more than their degrees. They deserve a toast and, more likely, a satisfying bottle, to steel themselves for the pass/fail job market and so many upended career paths.  Here’s the case for celebration: a dozen wines for 12 degrees.

Alsace Blanc

Two lively and value-priced Alsatian whites are ideal choices for spring.

The 2016 Lucien Albrecht Cuvée Balthazar Pinot Blanc (★★ $13) is yellow-gold, with notes of peach and plum. The 2017 Domaines Schlumberger Pinot Blanc Les Princes Abbes (★★ $17) has a sunny hue and a scent of citrus, plus a floral touch.

They’re ready to be chilled and served with everything from sautéed sole or snapper to chicken, either fried or grilled.

These Are the Best Wines to Be Drinking Now - Broken Down by Varietal

Whether you prefer chardonnay, rosé, cabernet, or zinfandel, these are the best bottles of wine to be drinking now.

We may not be able to physically travel to different wine regions at the moment, but that doesn’t mean we can’t explore the world by drinking some truly excellent wine this year. We spoke to a few expert sommeliers to get their recommendations, and they all had some interesting thoughts about what to look for this year at a variety of price points, from classic releases to new vintages, along with some words about what makes each wine special. In addition to that, there are some picks here that we can verify are worth looking out for as well.

Riesling

Ostertag ‘Les Jardins’ Riesling 2018

“Alsatian Rieslings are amongst the most versatile and interesting wines on the planet. They are unadulterated by new oak flavors, can be found in a broad spectrum of different styles, and can be used to pair with an extraordinary variety of cuisine, or as a tasty and refreshing everyday wine to be enjoyed without food. If you like a lean, crisp and racy style of wine, look for some 2016's. If you like a softer, riper, fruitier style, snap up some 2018's,” said Josh Nadel, Beverage Director for NoHo Hospitality. $30

Our Favorite Spring Sparklers

Spring is here, and although it is the strangest time most of us have ever experienced – there’s really NO reason to not be drinking sparkling wine right now.

Now more than ever, we need to celebrate the small victories in our every day! Like that you were able to finish a Zoom meeting without your kid walking in on you, that you were able to grab the last roll of toilet paper in the grocery store today, or that you were able to work a full hour without having to check the latest news on CNN. Celebration time, and what better to celebrate with than a glass (we mean bottle) of bubbly?

Here’s a rundown of all the sparklers we will be drinking this spring. If they last us that long…

Kuentz-Bas Tradition Crémant d’Alsace Brut N.V.

$24

With rich aromas of green apples, flowers, citrus, and spice. The palate is slightly creamy with tastes of orange, lemon, and tart green apple skin. There are also notes of minerals and almonds along with a dry, vibrant finish.

François Baur Crémant d’Alsace Brut NV

$19

With subtle fruit and flower aromas, this Pinot Blanc and Riesling blend can hold its own against an array of summer dishes from Sweet and Spicy Glazed Chicken Skewers to a Grilled Crispy-Skinned Salmon.

Domaine Mittnacht Frères Crémant d’Alsace Brut

$23

This is a dry sparkler made from white varieties including Pinot Auxerrois, Pinot Blanc and Riesling. The blend boasts notes of brioche and crisp citrus flavors, that combine into a refreshing pairing for all summer parties from the backyard to the pool.

Gustave Lorentz Crémant d’Alsace Brut

$26

This is a dry, balanced option with red fruit notes and a lemony finish. Clean and zesty, it can enhance any cocktail hour without breaking the bank.

Surviving The Pandemic: Generations Of Winemakers Share Lessons From History

PFV members attending the annual meeting at in Alsace, France

Wine is one of the world’s oldest beverages and many of today’s iconic winemaking families are living archives of centuries of hardship, joy, pain, and success. What do these families with their generations of experience think about today’s pandemic and how do they view the future? I asked the members of Primum Familiae Vini, (“Leading Wine Families”), an international association of 12 legendary winemaking families, to share their thoughts on our global crisis in light of the historic challenges their ancestors faced. The challenges may have been different for each family (from plague to war) but the themes are universal: a willingness to reinvent and pivot to the new normal, and a commitment to endure. For many, their greatest achievements were born in adversity. Their thoughts, edited for brevity, reflect an unflinching assessment of the situation coupled with a remarkable, resolute positivity that focuses on the long view. “Let everything happen to you, beauty and terror, just keep going, no feeling is final.”—Rilke

What challenges did your ancestors face in the past and how did they overcome them?

Jean Frédéric Hugel, Export Director at Famille Hugel (France): Because of our location near Germany’s border our winery has been through wars, changes of nationality, and epidemics. Our ancestors survived; they adapted, but never compromised on quality, never took the easy path, and always kept a long-term vision. When the constant back and forth between France and Germany put the economy of the region on its knees, Jean, and his son,(who is my great grandfather), decided in 1937 to embark on a trip that required five different planes to establish our brand in Australia. Jean, when he passed away, had already paid for the inheritance tax over two generations! Always hope for the best, but be ready for the worst, that could well be our motto. Quite helpful as we speak, I must admit, and looking back gives us strength and motivation to look ahead.

How do your ancestor’s challenges influence the way you see today’s crisis?

Jean Frédéric Hugel: I hope it influences our experience for the best, but I want to make sure I do not regret anything once it is over. Morality pays a huge role in our family, in our way of managing and doing business. We all have our own moral codes of course, but I want to believe my morality will be the same at the end of this crisis as it was at the beginning. It is in everyone’s hands to make a big difference, rarely has that been more true. My ancestors have made the right decisions at the right time without compromising. I wish to say the same when this is done. 

Delicious Wine and Recipes from Domaine Deiss, Alsace

We may not be able to travel abroad this spring, but we can travel virtually via our kitchens—by preparing delicious recipes shared by our friends from afar. Many of us have discovered a renewed interest in cooking for this very reason. What better way to connect with others than over a meal and a glass of wine? I have found that simply opening a bottle of wine and inhaling the aroma brings back fond memories of past travels and conversations around the table.

I had planned a return visit to Alsace, France, this spring.  While that trip is on hold (for now), I can still enjoy the wines of Alsace…and so can you! 

Photo courtesy of Domaine Deiss

Alsace Wine and Food Inspiration

I reached out to my friend Marie-Héléne Cristafaro, oenologist and General Manager at Domaine Marcel Deiss in Bergheim, Alsace, for some food and wine inspiration. Not only is she in charge of all management operations for the winery, but she’s also a superb cook. Marie-Héléne is quite waiflike, and though there is a saying, “never trust a skinny cook,”  in this case, that advice is wrong. She graciously supplied me with some of her favorite recipes for spring pairings. I know you’ll love these recipes, and they are especially appropriate for the upcoming Easter and Passover holidays.

In the cellar at Domaine Deiss with Marie-Héléne

Who is Domaine Marcel Deiss?

Domaine Marcel Deiss is one of the premier winemakers in France, with family roots in Bergheim dating back to the 1700s. The family owns 52 acres of hillside vineyards spread throughout nine communes. The vineyards have been organic since 1977, and biodynamic principles are practiced both in the vineyards and the winery. Nothing is added, and nothing is taken away. It’s a very low intervention approach to winemaking that allows the terroir to express itself via the wine. 

What makes Deiss so different?

Jean Michel Deiss’s approach to winemaking is based on two key principles: biodynamic farming, and co-planting. Co-planting simply refers to growing many different varietals within the same parcel in the vineyard. Though historically this is common in Alsace, more recently, it has not been widely practiced.

And, according to the rules of the Grand Cru vineyards established in 1983. only four grape varieties are allowed: Pinot Gris, Riesling, Muscat, and Gewürztraminer. Believing strongly in co-planting, Deiss decided to ignore the rules, and fight to change them—which he did (in cooperation with other winemakers) in 2005. The result is truly delicious, complex wines. If you have yet to try them, now is a great time to do so! Here’s the link for online orders in the USA. Wine House

#Alsacerocks

What does biodynamic mean?

A very simplified definition of biodynamic that is easy to understand is biodynamic farming follows organic farming protocol; no herbicides, pesticides, or chemicals of any kind are allowed in the vineyards.  A biodynamic calendar is followed for planning vineyard management, like pruning, which is done according to the cycles of the moon.

Read more about biodynamic farming. My personal experience with biodynamic wines has been that I can drink a little more than usual without feeling the alcohol effects and, it just tastes better to me. This is, of course, my subjective point of view. You can read more of the philosophy of biodynamic farming practices at Domaine Deiss 

 Let’s start cooking and drinking! Here are my two favorite recipes Marie-Héléne shared:

Asparagus with Hollandaise Sauce

Spring in Alsace means fresh asparagus, both white and green. If you happen to be in Alsace, you can find this served everywhere. It is usually paired with a Pinot Gris or a Muscat wine. 

Recommended: Domaine Deiss Langenberg Cru d’ Alsace, a field blend that contains Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Beurot, Muscat, and Pinot Noir

This is a very aromatic wine with notes of lemon, grapefruit, and white flowers on the nose. There’s also a nice minerally taste and excellent acidity. This is a complex wine with a nice medium-long finish.

Bonus: this wine can be aged for up to 10 years. 

Note: You could also pair the asparagus with a Salmon Tartare or smoked ham; either would be delicious.

Here’s a very nice video demonstration on how to prepare the asparagus and the Hollandaise sauce. It’s in French, but do not worry–you will easily be able to follow along. 

Classic Spring Entree: Rack of Lamb

For a classic spring main course, Marie Héléne suggested a roast rack of lamb with rosemary. 

This is one of my personal favorites–it’s easy to prepare, yet looks very elegant.

Ingredients

1 rack of lamb (8 ribs)

3  tablespoons rosemary-scented oil

1 teaspoon fleur de sel 

1  teaspoon mixed crushed peppercorns

4 rosemary sprigs

4 garlic cloves

1 cup of rosemary honey

Preparation

1. Wash, peel and cut the zucchini lengthwise.

2. Mix the honey with a little water and 1 tsp. scented oil.

3. Using a brush, brush the rack of lamb with this preparation. 

4. Place the rack of lamb in a cast-iron casserole dish, add a spoonful .of the scented oil and garlic cloves. 

5. Cook covered for about 45 minutes, adding a little water if necessary during cooking.

6. Fry the zucchini in a pan in a spoon of scented oil 5-6 min. Keep warm.

7. When ready to serve, wedge the sprigs of rosemary into the ribs of the rack of lamb, flambé them and close the lid of the casserole dish for a few minutes so that the entire rack is soaked in the scent of smoked rosemary. Separate the ribs and serve them with the zucchini. Sprinkle with fleur de sel, 5 peppercorn mix, and rosemary flowers for the decor.

Here’s the page for the rack of lamb recipe if you prefer to read it in French.

Wines to pair with rack of lamb

Domaine Deiss Burlenberg Cru d’ Alsace, a red wine that is dominantly Pinot Noir grapes, the only red wine grape grown in Alsace. The Burlenberg vineyard is a calcareous limestone similar to that you can find in Cotes de Nuits in Burgundy.  Here’s an alternative link to purchase Domaine Deiss online.

The wine is a full-bodied red wine with a nose of black fruits, such as black raspberries, black currants, and blackberry, as well as nutmeg and smoke. This wine will age 10 – 15 years.

Alternatively, you can pair the lamb with the Domaine Deiss Gruenspiel Cru d’ Alsace. The blend is Riesling, Pinot Noir, and Gewürztraminer. While this is not a traditional pairing, this wine has enough structure, tannins, and acidity to pair well with the meat. It is a dry wine, with aromas of chocolate, smoked pear, and spices. Yum! I’d love to try this combination. Be sure to ask at your local wine and spirits shop–they may be able to order this for you. 

I hope you are now feeling as hungry and inspired as I am. I’m off to the kitchen! Please leave your comments below. Let me know if you try any of the recipes, wines, etc. 

Thanks again to Marie Hélélne for the recipes and pairing suggestions. Stay tuned, as the next recipe is going to be a light and sweet spring dessert.

Wine Press - What wine should I have with Easter dinner?

WHAT WINE TO HAVE WITH HAM

Probably the most traditional food served on Easter, ham often has robust flavors that are slightly salty and sometimes even a bit crispy and a little sweet. Pairing wine ham should be fairly easy. Ham’s mixture of slightly sweet and salty flavors go great with a wide range of wines, from Beaujolais red wine from France to white wines from France’s Alsace region.

Recommended White Wine - Pinot Gris from France’s Alsace region or Rose from France’s Provence region. Many white wines go great with ham, but these wines in particular can be especially fun and delicious wine pairings. For Pinot Gris, I recommend one from Domaine Zind-Humbrecht ($21 SRP or more), a wonderful crisp, dry, white wine from France’s Alsace region. 

WHAT WINE TO HAVE WITH TURKEY

Turkey’s another versatile main course that goes great with a wine range of wines. What can really make a difference is what side dishes you serve with roasted turkey, how much butter you use to prepare your turkey and other minor details. But in general, I personally think the wines recommended below go great with the often buttery, roasted flavors associated with turkey.

Recommended White Wine - Chardonnay from Chablis in France’s Burgundy region or Gewurztraminer from France’s Alsace region. Crisp, dry white wines taste great with turkey. As for a Gewurztraminer from France’s Alsace region, I recommend the 2015 Trimbach Gewurztraminer ($19.99 at Table & Vine), a crisp, clean wine with a golden finish and floral undertones.

The Grand Cru Rangen de Thann: A Vineyard's Story

Alsace’s Volcanic Jewel, in the Words of Olivier Humbrecht and Ian d’Agata

Nearly every Grand Cru in Alsace relays a multi-layered story of upheaval — of colliding and grinding geologic forces, of abandonment in the face of economic depressions, and of World Wars and the battles that ravaged the land and its people. But even by Alsatian standards, the Grand Cru Rangen de Thann tells a particularly compelling tale of turmoil.

Volcanic forces forged this inconspicuous hillside adjacent to the town of Thann, making it a geological anomaly in the Vosges Mountains. The Thur River has slowly been scouring the base of its slope, and in October, it provides the blanket of fog needed to develop noble rot in the grape clusters that remain. These two ingredients combine to create some of the most fascinating white wines in the world, particularly those from Domaine Zind-Humbrecht’s monopole, Clos Saint Urbain.

Yet, as recently as the early 1970s, “the Rangen,” as it is often called, lay abandoned — its steeply pitched face ravaged by weeds, shrubs and feral vines, and its compacted soil concealing something far more sinister.

“When we took over the vineyard in the late 1970s,” recounted winemaker Olivier Humbrecht MW, “we found roughly a hundred hand grenades that were unexploded.” Then, in the late 1990s when they halted the application of herbicides and started plowing, Humbrecht and his team made another chilling discovery: three unexploded ordnance from World War II. Likely dropped by aircraft, the huge bombs had been hiding in the dirt for 50 years with no one noticing. Needless to say, they called the French Army to clear them.

But despite the dangers, the father-son duo of Léonard and Olivier Humbrecht could not turn away from Alsace’s southernmost Grand Cru — a vineyard which, despite its sanctioned status, had barely any wine on the market at the time. Their tireless efforts at restoration gave rise to one of Alsace’s most prized wines, the Clos Saint Urbain Pinot Gris.

A view of the Clos Saint Urbain chapel in the heart of the Grand Cru Rangen de Thann reveals the steepness of the pitch. ©Domaine Zind-Humbrecht

Stepping up into the Rangen de Thann — a vineyard of extreme difficulty. ©Adobe Stock Photo

“Quite simply, it is the best Pinot Gris in the world,” claims award-winning author Ian d’Agata, who is currently working on a book about Alsatian wines. “In fact, it is one of the world’s greatest white wines.”

After their 1978 vintage debut, Zind-Humbrecht’s Clos Saint Urbain wines from the Grand Cru Rangen de Thann made an immediate impact with the French wine press. Inspired by Zind-Humbrecht’s success (as well as the historic appeal of the Rangen), another Alsatian family would join them in 1986 — Domaine Schoffit, who acquired the Clos Saint-Théobald to the east.

The Rangen matters because it refuses to be domesticated. Its relatively high elevation, volcanic soil, steep pitch and proximity to the Thur River combine to make every vintage fickle for the winemaker and beguiling for the wine taster.

History of the Grand Cru Rangen de Thann

When I began my interview with Olivier Humbrecht, I asked him a straightforward, nuts-and-bolts question: when did his family acquire their vines in the Rangen?

He paused, then began: “Let’s go back to the 12th century…”

It struck me as such an Alsatian way to answer the question, because nothing in terms of ownership of vines is easily, or quickly, explained. Naturally, he had to start at the very beginning just to illustrate why his father took such an interest in the Rangen in the 1970s, when Zind-Humbrecht ultimately acquired their prized plot.

But Humbrecht was the perfect person for such a history lesson. As the first person in France to achieve the Master of Wine title — a rarity among winemakers — he has become known for his fastidiousness and curious nature. When I first met him at the Millesimes d’Alsace in 2018, he provided a thorough tutorial on what chilling the must achieves as he casually poured his Clos Windsbuhl Riesling, likening the yeast strands to “viking babies” that have to be “dunked in the ice cold waters to see which one’s survive.” I’m paraphrasing, but the trade-floor tutorial was unlike anything I’d heard before. Olivier Humbrecht operates on another level.

Curiosity and inquisitiveness are familial traits. His father, Léonard, was taken with the Rangen because of its local lore. Franciscan monks were the first to document their cultivation of the esteemed hillside in the 12th century. As the legend goes, a Bishop was traveling through the region, and when he stopped in the valley to camp for the night, he sunk a stake into the ground. When the stake was removed the next morning, water poured forth from the soil. The miracle created a pilgrimage site as well as a need for sacramental wine. With its southern exposure, the Rangen — which may have already been planted with vines — became the monastery vineyard, and soon, gained a reputation all its own.

Winemaker Olivier Humbrecht MW of Domaine Zind-Humbrecht. ©Domaine Zind-Humbrecht

A view over the Rangen toward the village of Thann and La Collégiale Saint Thiébaut. ©Patricia Didierjean/Conseil Vins Alsace

For the next few centuries, wines from the steeply-pitched hillside at the southern end of the Vosges Mountains would captivate royalty across Europe. Its proximity to Strasbourg and the Rhine River ensured that its wines could travel far and wide. Louis XIV claimed ownership of it for a time in the 17th century, and later, it was the wine poured in the halls of power of the Habsburg Empire in Vienna (Empress Maria Theresa had a particular fondness for the Rangen). Olivier noted that there are even records of the Rangen’s wines being sold to the Russian Empire.

But even its royal esteem could not save it from the ravages of the 20th century. Weakened by the phylloxera plague, the Rangen was deprived of workers in the 1920s by the booming Alsatian textile industry. Then, successive World Wars made Alsace a key battleground between Germany and France. What followed was a post-war demand for rapid industrialization and rebuilding, which shifted the battered wine industry of Alsace toward mechanization and mass production. Vineyards on the valley floor became the prized real estate. The Rangen was simply too steep to serve the needs of the economy.

“The name of the vineyard is so often mentioned in books, and people raved about it over a very, very long period,” said Humbrecht. “When that happens, you go beyond fashion. You go beyond what people drink in a specific moment. That is what drove my father to certain vineyards, especially this one.”

The Grand Cru Rangen de Thann: Who’s Who

The Clos Saint Urbain

Olivier Humbrecht represents a family line of winegrowers that dates back to the Thirty Years War in 1620. But until his father, Léonard, established Domaine Zind-Humbrecht in 1959 (after his marriage to Geneviève Zind of another winegrowing family), much of this activity took place in and around Gueberschwihr in Central Alsace, some 30 kilometers north of the Rangen.

“My father was what you call a ‘soil collector,'” noted Humbrecht. “He would buy the land and then he’d try to figure out a way to make the wine.” This proved to be an exceedingly difficult challenge when it came to reviving the Rangen. Only three of its original 500 hectares remained as vineyard. (For scale, the Grand Cru today is around 20 hectares). Shrubs, trees and invasive plants had reclaimed vast stretches of the Rangen, their roots breaking apart the walls that held the hillside in place.

Only two growers were tending to it at the time: one was a weinstube owner in Thann; the other, an erudite professor based in Strasbourg who, like Léonard Humbrecht, had been captivated by the Rangen’s history. Despite planting very good vine material, the professor’s endeavor was pure fancy — there was no way to practice viticulture from two-and-a-half hours away, let alone on such demanding terrain.

A view of the vineyard from near the town of Thann shows the River Thur’s proximity to the vines — an essential ingredient in the development of botrytis. ©Adobe Stock Photo

Looking up the steep vertical rocks, it is easy to see the “graywacke” volcanic rocks in the rows, which lend the wines of the Rangen de Thann a hint of flint or smoke. ©Adobe Stock Photo

In 1977, the professor’s plot became the first block in Domaine Zind-Humbrecht’s restoration project of the Clos Saint Urbain. Everything about the Clos Saint Urbain was (and continues to be) demanding. The plot surrounds the ancient chapel, stretching from the forest at the top of the hill down to the edges of the Thur River. Unlike most clos vineyards in France, this one has multiple walls throughout it. To fully enclose the vineyard on two of its sides would be impossible and impractical — instead, dry-stone terraces hold the hillside in place to slow the persistent forces of erosion.

“It’s a pretty unique place, and unbelievably steep,” wine writer Ian d’Agata told me. I wanted to know what his impressions were — not only as a noted wine critic who had tasted multiple vintages of Rangen wines and seen their evolution — but as fan of Alsace the region.

“Anytime you’re in the midst of a unique vineyard that makes truly world-class wines … it becomes a special moment where it’s just you, nature and one particularly magical spot,” he told me. “It is hard to explain but they are peace-inducing moments that you just don’t forget. It’s the same with the Rangen.”

The vineyard’s soil leaves a mysterious thumbprint on any of the wines that come from it. Known as greywacke (pronounced GRAH-wock), the ancient volcanic material is suffused with particles of sandstone, and is poor in organic matter. Everything transmitted to the vines is different than, for instance, granite or limestone, and to a taster, the most immediate impression comes in the form of ashy aromas and electric sensation of minerals on the palate. Add to this the Thur River’s humid kiss — and the botrytis that often forms, particularly on Pinot Gris — and you have wines unlike any in the world.

A view across the Clos Saint Urbain to the renowned chapel in late autumn — almost half of the Grand Cru Rangen de Thann. Note the Thur River flowing in the shadows. ©Frantisek Zvardon – Conseil Vins Alsace

When La Revue du vin de France reviewed the first vintage of Domaine Zind-Humbrecht’s Grand Cru Rangen de Thann Riesling (the 1978 vintage) alongside nearly 50 other Alsatian wines, writer Michel Bettane refused to rank it. “He said he could not include it because exactly half of the tasters on the panel listed it as No. 1, and the other half put it last,” recalls Humbrecht. “To list it as No. 25 out of 50 or something — it would make no sense. It was such a distortion.”

But it would be the Pinot Gris from Clos Saint Urbain that would become the star of the Grand Cru Rangen de Thann. In fact, only in Zind-Humbrecht’s Clos Saint Urbain does Pinot Gris break free of its second-tier reputation as a grape and enter the conversation among “world’s greatest white wines,” as d’Agata calls it. Part of this stems from the wine’s apricot-and-honeyed tones mingling with a tinge of smoke, but its lightning-bolt energy, structure and stability give the Clos Saint Urbain Pinot Gris to seemingly limitless aging potential. The domaine’s Riesling and Gewurztraminer — while less influenced by botrytis — also have tremendous endurance.

Ian d’Agata has tasted through most of the vintages of Domaine Zind-Humbrecht’s Grand Cru Rangen de Thann wines, especially the Pinot Gris, and he notes that — while every vintage is wildly different — they evolve very slowly.

The extreme steepness of the Clos Saint Urbain of the Grand Cru Rangen de Thann ©Domaine Zind-Humbrecht/Kobrand

Combating erosion is a constant struggle for Domaine Zind-Humbrecht ©Domaine Zind-Humbrecht/Kobrand

“I personally think the wines don’t change as much over the years as is common with other wines from other [Alsatian] Grand Cru sites — or with most white wines in general.” He suspects that much of this has to do with their concentration, extract level and high acidity. “They tend to remain powerful, broad and saline.”

New York City-based French chef André Soltner — whose Lutèce was the paragon of French cuisine in Manhattan for nearly three decades — was the first to import Domaine Zind-Humbrecht into the United States in the late 1980s, for the benefit of his restaurant. A native of Thann, he was smitten with the Humbrecht family’s restoration of his hometown Grand Cru. He even managed to turn Richard Nixon into a Rangen obsessive, gifting him two cases of the Pinot Gris after the former U.S. President’s first taste.

What It Takes to Farm the Rangen

As Domaine Zind-Humbrecht converted to organic viticultural practices in the late 1990s, they came upon an enormous problem in the Rangen (besides the unexploded bombs from World War II). First off all, the vineyard’s unusual volcanic soil accelerated the growth of grasses and weeds, creating excessive competition for their vines. The solution, until that point, had been herbicides, but Olivier Humbrecht and his team were convinced that they needed to abandon chemical practices all together, both for their own health benefit as well as the long-term benefit of the plants and their wines.

This meant the Rangen would need to be plowed.

The problem was that the Rangen’s terrain was ridiculous in every way: steep, rugged, unforgiving. If the other Zind-Humbrecht vineyards were a walk in the park, farming the Grand Cru Rangen de Thann organically was like scaling the face of El Capitan.

“It is important to understand the massiveness of the work,” Humbrecht told me. For instance, it would normally take someone an hour to treat a hectare of flat vineyard with a year’s worth of herbicide. To plow that same hectare: half a day. “But in the Rangen, a hectare takes two weeks to plow.”

Vertically aligned rows in the Rangen de Thann enable plowing, but for manual tasks, the pitch can be back breaking. ©Patricia Didierjean/Conseil Vins Alsace

Complicating the conversion was the fact that, at least in the 1990s, there were no fabricated plowing systems for such a job. Humbrecht began to look high and low across Alsace for equipment that he could repurposed for manual plowing on a severe pitch. Much of his search was fruitless. At one garage, the owner refused the request, but an eaves-dropping old-timer interrupted them. “He said, ‘I used to work here 50 years ago. You still have some plows for this in the attic that you have never sold.’”

Sure enough, wrapped in oiled newspaper to prevent rust, were two “brand-new” plows from the early 20th century.

But once at the vineyard, another issue presented itself. Following modern viticultural trends, the vine rows had long been trained horizontally across the slope. Workers applying herbicides could better navigate the hill walking across the slope, but pulling a plow — either by winch or behind a horse — was dangerously unstable.

The solution was to pull up all of the posts, remove the wires and train the vine rows vertically.

“When I was doing this job in 1998, another old guy, he must have been in his nineties, started to laugh and mock us for a long time,” recalls Humbrecht. “I said ‘why are you laughing so stupidly at our hard work?’ He said ‘I always said that eventually someone would put those vines back to the way they were planted.’ They had been planted down in the beginning, but with the age of herbicides, they’d pulled them up and trained it horizontally because it was easier.”

The fallout from years of herbicides was significant. According to Humbrecht, because they indiscriminately killed grasses, herbicides had resulted in significant soil compaction. While this had held much of the hill together, it obstructed nutrient linkage between the vines and the top soil. With his vine rows trained vertically, and his old-is-new-again plows attached to a winch, Humbrecht began his plowing operations in the spring of 1998. But rains in May created massive erosion.

Winches are used for a variety of tasks in the Rangen de Thann, such as plowing and collecting harvest. ©Patricia Didierjean/Conseil Vins Alsace

“If you create one inch of loose material on top of something very hard, and you get a good rain, everything goes down,” explained Humbrecht. After that first storm, his entire team spent a week bringing topsoil back up into the vineyard. The following Saturday, three inches of rain fell, undoing all of their work and then some. Humbrecht must have felt like Sisyphus.

“When you convert from conventional to organic viticulture on a steep slope, there is that dangerous moment,” he reminisced. “Today, I would do things differently. I would not plow too quickly. I would allow grass and weeds and wild plants to grow first, and not do anything for the first one of two years.”

This, of course, fails to solve the original issue of nutrient competition in the first few years, but to Humbrecht, the sacrifice would be worth it. Today, after years of steady rehabilitation of the soil, the Clos Saint Urbain is decompacted, absorbent of rain and oxygen, and most importantly, stable.

The Clos Saint-Théobald

To the east of the Clos Saint Urbain, the Rangen hillside angles away from the river and faces fully to the south. This pitch is known as the Clos Saint-Théobald, and, like the Clos Saint Urbain, it is a monopole belonging to one family — Domaine Schoffit.

Like the Humbrecht family, Bernard Schoffit felt the irresistible pull of the Rangen from afar. The problem was convincing his father it was worth the toil.

Named after the parish church of Thann below, the Clos Saint-Théobald had once been farmed by Franciscan monks, who erected and maintained an elaborate terracing system to reduce erosion on this portion of the hillside. After World War II, the Clos Saint-Théobald (again, not a true walled vineyard, but a vineyard with walls) came into the ownership of a weinstube in Thann. For decades, the wines were served out of the pub and — as Olivier Humbrecht recalled — were rustic to say the least.

A view over the Clos Saint-Théobald shows the difference in pitch from the steeper Clos Saint-Urbain, which is around to the right in this photo. ©Adobe Stock Photo

Spurred on by the sudden success of Domaine Zind-Humbrecht’s Rangen wines in the early 1980s, Bernard Schoffit began to explore buying the Clos Saint-Théobald. But unlike Léonard and Olivier Humbrecht, there wasn’t immediate consensus within the family. “Robert tried to convince Bernard that the acquisition was a bad move,” Valerie Bilgri, a representative from Schoffit’s importer, Weygandt Metzler, told me. “But it has turned out to be one of the most defining sites for the domaine.”

Less steeply pitched than the Clos Saint Urbain — but nonetheless overgrown and in terrible shape at the time — the Clos Saint-Théobald required ample work from the family and its crew when they finally bought it in 1986. The stone terraces that dated back to the Middle Ages required special attention, as they practically hold the hillside in place. Stone by stone, Bernard rebuilt them, and those monastic walls continue to provide a framework for the family’s horizontally trained vines, which are unique to the Rangen.

Brooklyn-based wine retailer Matt Rossiter — who works closely with Weygandt-Metzler and who recently toured the Clos Saint-Théobald with Bernard Schoffit and his son Alexandre — called the Rangen imposing. “Arriving in Thann, it rises like a wall on the edge of the town,” he wrote, adding that it seems to loom in the distance from every street in town. “The vineyards [of Clos Saint-Théobald] themselves are aggressively steep. The footing is treacherous as loose rocks — both small and large — and dry, sandy soils slide constantly, threatening to send you tumbling down the hillside.”

He added: “The Schoffits will instruct you: if you fall, just don’t damage the grapes.”

Gewurztraminer displays its beautiful and beguiling color. ©Stéphane Spach/Conseil Vins Alsace

Thin-skinned Pinot Gris “looks at the fog, and gets botrytis,” says Olivier Humbrecht MW. ©Pierre Bouard/Conseil Vins Alsace

The subtleties between the two clos vineyards are slight but important. Because Clos Saint-Théobald faces directly south, it is a bit warmer, which allows the wines consistently to reach the sweet-wine territory ideal for Vendange Tardive or Sélection de Grains Nobles. Furthermore, the Thur River’s slight bend away from the slope means that the effects of noble rot are even more confined to the lower slopes.

Sugar and Climate Change

But the struggle to maintain balance in the wines as the climate changes and warms with each year, is real. “It is increasingly a challenge to choose a harvest date that can still produce a dry wine,” notes Rossiter. “And the grapes must be carefully selected to avoid overripeness and overblown wines.”

Humbrecht noted much the same. “Some years, the vineyard and the climate will dictate the style of wine that we need to produce, and you cannot go against it.” The Clos Saint Urbain Pinot Gris I tasted for this article (below) was from 2010, a year in which Humbrecht had no choice but to work with grapes affected by noble rot. In 2004, he had the opposite situation: the wine had to be dry. Other years, such as 2019, the conditions present options.

This of course imposes a challenge to creating a consistent product year after year, but for Humbrecht, that’s part of the Rangen’s charms. “We said in 2008 ‘no more sweet wines,’” notes Humbrecht. “But in the Rangen, the botrytis takes no prisoners.”

Despite the desire to present what nature provides, winemakers are increasingly pressured by the market to make their wines dry. It is a welcome development, said Ian d’Agata, but one that comes with challenges. “Sugar levels have been scaled back in the last ten years, but it’s not as simple as dialing back sugar by allowing the fermentation to go on longer.”

The Rangen, he noted, demands winemaking of the highest order of skill, otherwise, the resulting wines could easily lose their freshness and balance in a sea of sugar or “top-heavy alcohol.” With climate change shuffling the deck each year, that challenge will only get bigger.

Humbrecht knows the stakes all too well. When I asked him how he is able to sell his wines when they have the potential to be so vastly different every year, he simply laughed. “If you were to tell me you had 6,000 people who wanted to drink a Pinot Gris at 50 grams of sugar, I’d say ‘fine, I can do that.’ But these people don’t exist any more.”

The Wines of Rangen de Thann

Four wines from the Grand Cru Rangen de Thann ©Kevin Day/Opening a Bottle

When I conceived of this article four months ago, six wines seemed like an ample cross-section, but now it feels insignificant in understanding the magic of this place. Perhaps I would have been better off with a vertical of two comparitive wines, such as a few vintages of Domaine Zind-Humbrecht’s Clos Saint Urbain Pinot Gris side-by-side to Domaine Schoffit’s Clos Saint-Théobald Pinot Gris. But the resources to pull off such a tasting weren’t available at this time.

Throughout, I was impressed by these wines from the Rangen, although not a single one captured the full story of the place. In hindsight, that is too tall of an order.

The most esteemed wine — Domaine Zind-Humbrecht’s Clos Saint Urbian Pinot Gris — was majestic and finely detailed, but rich and heavy. While the Rangen’s signature smokiness was there, I felt like it was a bit suppressed.

Surprisingly, it was the two Gewurztraminer that impressed me the most (me? A fan of Gewurztraminer?), but I walked away from these six wines feeling as though I’d read six isolated pages of a novel — there were a lot of gaps to fill. I need to keep reading.

This is because the Rangen displays such incredible variability from year to year, especially with the wines of Domaine Zind-Humbrecht’s Clos Saint Urbain, which face the river. One year could be perfectly dry; the next could be sweet with a thick vein of botrytis flavor through its core.

One way to know what a particular bottle will offer is to look for the “Indice” number on the label, an index devised in Alsace to identify sweetness on a scale of 1 to 5 (with 5 being sweetest). The problem is that the system has not been adopted by all vignerons, as it is voluntary, and therefore some producers label wines off-dry that are actually sweet.

Better yet, consult the domaine’s website. Domaine Zind-Humbrecht’s wines are methodically catalogued by vintage with meticulous notes on each year’s weather patterns and the technical data of each wine, all of it online. (You would expect nothing less from the first Master of Wine in France).

The 2016 Domaine Schoffit Clos Saint-Théobald Alsace Grand Cru Rangen de Thann Pinot Gris and the 2016 Domaine Schoffit Clos Saint-Théobald Alsace Grand Cru Rangen de Thann Gewurztraminer ©Kevin Day/Opening a Bottle

2010 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht Clos Saint Urbain Alsace Grand Cru Rangen de Thann Pinot Gris

Grapes: Pinot Gris (100%)
Alcohol:
Practice: Organic and biodynamic)
Rating: ★★★★★ (out of five)
• Food friendliness: Selective
• Value: As expected

Tasting notes: The 2010 vintage of Zind-Humbrecht’s signature wine saw a tiny crop, and foggy mornings nearly every day in October. “It was nearly impossible to avoid noble rot,” Humbrecht told me, adding that it was one of the richest vintages in all their years working with the Rangen de Thann. At 49g/L of residual sugar, the 2010 Pinot Gris is massively sweet.

Aromas suggest juicy apricots, orange peel, light rose, lemon verbena and an ever-so-faint bit of flint, although I would note the aromatics are predominantly of fruit and flowers. The palate however, shows the mastery of Zind-Humbrecht’s approach. It really threads the needle, as normally wines this sweet can be fatiguing and garish. There is a light crispness on the mid-palate that is balanced by the wine’s density and heft. And as it opens over time, leathery tones of tanned hide emerge both on the nose and on the palate. This feature alone is something I’ve never encountered in a white wine before. A mystifying but thoroughly enjoyable puzzle of a wine.

2016 Domaine Schoffit Clos Saint-Théobald Alsace Grand Cru Rangen de Thann Pinot Gris

Grapes: Pinot Gris (100%)
Alcohol:
Practice:  (biodynamic)
Rating: ★★★★ 1/4 (out of five)
• Food friendliness: Limited
• Value: As expected

Tasting notes: One of the rarer wines from Alsace, Domain Schoffit’s 2016 Pinot Gris from the Clos Saint-Théobald section of the Grand Cru Rangen de Thann is intense but a little unfocused, in my opinion.

The aromas are so sweet they seem sticky, suggesting ripe pears, fleshy apricots, plums, honey and baking spice. There was more intrigue on the palate, where Rangen de Thann’s mineral edges cut into the sweetness and create dimension. The wine is bright and vivid for sure, but also thick, almost viscous in its body. Noticeable alcohol and a long, broad finish. I prefer Domaine Schoffit’s Gewurztraminer from this vineyard.

2016 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht Clos Saint Urbain Alsace Grand Cru Rangen de Thann Gewurztraminer

Grapes: Gewurztraminer (100%)
Alcohol: 15%
Practice:  (organic and biodynamic)
Rating: ★★★★★ (out of five)
• Food friendliness: Selective
• Value: A little pricey

Tasting notes: My favorite wine from this session on the Grand Cru Rangen de Thann actually comes from one of my least favorite grapes. Normally, Gewurztraminer and my palate are like two pundits shouting at each other on television. Then again, I’ve never had Gewurztraminer like this.

With its golden color and massive aromatics, the Zind-Humbrecht Gewurztraminer from Clos Saint Urbain makes an immediate entrance after the cork has been removed. It’s tones reminded me of wild roses by the sea (specific? Yes, but my memory was transported to Cape Cod’s dunes in June). There was also lychee and flint. A second impression of the aromas revealed even more of that smoky, volcanic sulphur note that has made the Rangen de Thann so famous. Here it was, and I couldn’t turn away. The nose suggests a vendage tardive, but the wine is completely dry (note: in most years, the Gewurztraminer has more sweetness). The lean body, crisp acidity, punchy alcohol and rich flavors all wove together brilliantly, with a featherweight finish. “No stray threads,” I wrote in my notes. One of Alsace’s best wines, and perhaps the best Gewurztraminer in the world.

2016 Domaine Schoffit Clos Saint-Théobald Alsace Grand Cru Rangen de Thann Gewurztraminer

Grapes: Gewurztraminer (100%)
Alcohol: 13%
Practice: (biodynamic)
Rating: ★★★★★ (out of five)
• Food friendliness: Selective
• Value: As expected

Tasting notes: Domaine Schoffit’s Gewurztraminer from the Clos Saint-Théobald is a perfect counterpoint to Domaine Zind-Humbrecht’s from the Clos Saint Urbain. Like Zind-Humbrecht’s version, it is pure delight with little fatigue — a Gewurztraminer that even I can love. Where it differs is in power, depth and smokiness. Schoffit’s rendition seems more delicate, more floral and spicier. On the palate, the tones are measured and restrained, which likely accounts for the lack of fatigue from this wine. There was a touch of sweetness to hold the wine together and to polish the variety’s harsher edges, but enough acidity and even a touch of tannin to give the wine grip.

I found myself missing Alsace and its landscape, people and cuisine while drinking this wine, which — come to think of it — is one of the highest compliments you can give wine.

2016 Wolfberger Alsace Grand Cru Rangen de Thann Riesling

Grapes: Riesling (100%)
Alcohol: 12.5%
Practice: (biodynamic)
Rating: ★★★★ 3/4 (out of five)
• Food friendliness: Impeccable
• Value: Very Good

Tasting notes: The lone Riesling tasted in this round comes from Wolfberger, the third-largest land owner in the Rangen. Their Riesling plot is concentrated in the upper corner, snug against the Clos Saint-Théobald and far enough away from the Thur River’s kiss.

This Riesling is light in color and on the palate, reminiscent of the many Rieslings in Germany that come from volcanic origin, such as the Ürziger Wurzgarten. Aromas are strongly suggestive of lime peel, tart peach and sour apple, delicately touched by honeysuckle-like floral tones. At the start of each sip, the fruit-and-flowers reign supreme, but I quickly found an electricity to the wine’s acidity that seemed more urgent and pressing than I have found elsewhere with Alsace’s Riesling. A very good wine.

2015 Domaine Maurice Schoech Harmonie “R” Alsace

Grapes: Pinot Gris (70%), Riesling (28%), Gewurztraminer (2%)
Alcohol: 13%
Practice: (organic)
Rating: ★★★★ 3/4 (out of five)
• Food friendliness: Impeccable
• Value: As expected

Tasting notes: A very rare wine, as less than 1,000 bottles are produced each year, the Harmonie “R” is the Grand Cru Rangen de Thann’s only field blend, sourcing a mix of mostly Pinot Gris, with Riesling and Gewurztraminer from the highest plot, above the Clos Saint Urbain. However, due to the wine laws of Alsace, it cannot claim the vineyard on the label because Grand Cru wines can only be varietal.

Field blends are often touted by their winemakers as the true representation of a vineyard’s terroir, but I’m not so sure in this case. While the wine is brilliantly balanced and delicious — with a sensation of phantom sweetness from the fruit, despite being vinified dry — I couldn’t help but notice its component parts in the aromas and taste. The Gewurztraminer, despite accounting for only 2% of the wine, is pronounced on the nose, lending a honeyed-rose tone. Riesling seems to account for the wine’s volume and structure, while the Pinot Gris balances it all with an acidity akin to a crisp, underripe pear. These components do “harmonize” to borrow the Schoech family’s moniker for it, but whether this is what the Grand Cru Rangen de Thann tastes like remains to be seen. There is just so much more to this one vineyard than can be captured by the ambition of a single bottle.

A New Generation of Women Is Leading Some of Europe’s Most Storied Winemakers

The generational changing of the guard has never quite looked like this before.

Every year, with each new bottling, wineries have a fresh opportunity to impress the world. But high-profile changeovers in the industry’s upper echelons may occur just once in a generation—which is why the wave of recent ascensions within major winemaking dynasties is so intriguing.

Some of the new guard, including Saskia Prüm, recently named owner and winemaker of Germany’s S.A. Prüm, and Anne Trimbach, now in charge of sales for famed Riesling house Maison Trimbach, have relevant old-school experience—vinification and marketing, respectively—but others bring entirely different backgrounds to their family businesses. 

Courtesy of Marlene Awaad

Inside the Maison Trimbach vineyard

Anne Trimbach, 35, represents the 13th generation to guide the winery founded by her ancestors in Alsace, France, in 1626; all of her vineyards are in the process of becoming certified organic, and she is pushing the outside growers she works with to become similarly accredited. Trimbach says her vision of the future is “more and more towards equality, respect for the environment and the people who work with us.”

11 Women-Made Wines to Try on International Women's Day

Domaine Valentin Zusslin Crémant d'Alsace Brut Zero Sans Souffre NV, $25

It's not often that a woman oversees a domaine—a vineyard that makes and bottles wine from its own grapes—and yet Marie Zusslin does just that as the winemaker and owner of Domaine Valentin Zusslin in Alsace, France. The 13-generation winemaker has helped expand her family's mark on the wine world, as well as the organic farming at the company's vineyards. The Crémant, a dry sparkling white wine, is just one of the many bottles under the Zusslin umbrella, but it's a total standout, ripe with apricot and peach notes and a slight mineral finish.

The Best Under $20 Wines To Cheers With This Valentine’s Day, According To Experts

Though we're not exactly sure why, the idea of "romance" often conjures an image of a pair of lovers intertwining their arms while sipping on glasses of good wine. Whether it's on a bearskin rug in front of a roaring fireplace, on a beach at sunset, or just on your couch while catching up on your shared favorite show, you can ignite romance this Valentine's Day with a bottle of expert-recommended wine.

Ahead, seven experts share their favorite under $20 bottles of wine that make the most dreamy addition to any kind of Valentine's Day celebration. Gift one to gal pal or split one with your partner. Either way, these wines are guaranteed to spread the love.

Trimbach Pinot Blanc, Alsace, France 2016

"This is a full-bodied white wine that is dry but has floral and honey notes. It's from a classic winery from Alsace, and it is refreshing but round and interesting. For winter holidays, like Valentine's Day, it's great with a cheese plate and fresh fruit." — Amy Racine, beverage director at The Times Square EDITION and The Loyal in New York, NY

Trimbach Pinot Blanc 2016, $21.00 $12.99, available at Wine.com.

Inside The Rich History Of Famille Hugel Wines

Jean-Frederic Hugel of Famille Hugel. Courtesy of Famille Hugel.

Jean-Frederic Hugel, the 13th generation to represent Famille Hugel, is part of a rich family tradition of winemaking, as the winery has been in operation since 1639 and the domaine opened in 1934 .

The importance of the vineyard runs deep in the family, and Jean-Frederic describes it with three vintages: the 1884 Straw wine, the 1976 vintage and the 2009 vintage. He says the 1884 Straw wine is an “exceptional” vintage—the grapes were left on a layer of straw for several weeks before they were crushed, causing them to become concentrated, sweet and rich. The family only has three bottles left, and Jean-Frederic says they are saving them for a special occasion. “If you have to sell your straw wine, that pretty much means selling the family jewels,” he notes. 

When the family knew Jean-Frederic’s great grandfather, Jean, would soon pass away, a bottle was brought up by Jean-Frederic’s great uncle, also named Jean (Jean-Frederic says this was “to keep the same initials on shirts and handkerchiefs.”) The bottle was grabbed so the family could drink in honor of the great grandfather’s last day. This is a tradition with the family, as they have all picked a vintage to drink on their last day. The great uncle had begun opening the bottle when the great grandfather said, “put this back in the cellar right now. Don’t you dare open that bottle.” 

The bottle still remains partially opened in the cellar to this day. 

Famille Hugel Gewurztraminer. Courtesy of Famille Hugel.

The 2009 vintage is also special to Jean-Frederic as it was his first one, and he made it with his cousin, Marc-Andre. However, this was the year his great uncle passed away, so he initially had a hard time drinking it. He has now come to appreciate the vintage, which he describes as “old, rich, powerful and sunny.” 

The 1976 vintage is also notable to Hugel. He says it was his great uncle’s vintage and it was “the one great success of his career,” Jean-Frederic says. “Whenever we drink a ’76, it’s his vintage and we always have a thought for him.” However, this vintage foreshadowed modern day ones since it was much more dry. This year was particularly disastrous for many regions of France, but the drier climate boded well for the Hugels because it made the wines more ripe. 

In the 86 years they have been operating, Jean-Frederic says the winery has had to adapt to climate change. He notes that their wines were originally harvested on October 15, and now they are harvesting on September 15 due to less ocean interference and warmer climates. He believes, though, that this has made the vintages taste better since they are now riper. 

Famille Hugel vineyard. Courtesy of Famille Hugel.

However, climate changes have created issues, such as longer periods of drought, drier seasons and warmer temperatures. “We’re definitely seeing a little bit more of these extreme vintages, and we pretty much expect they will become the norm in the next 10 or 15 years,” he adds. Looking forward, he worries about droughts since the domaine doesn’t want to use irrigation, so he expects Famille Hugel to tweak their viticulture methods in the future. 

Famille Hugel has faced other challenges over the years: the land rotated between being owned by Germany and France. Alsace wines have gone back and forth between the two countries multiple times over the years, but the wines remained in France after World War II. 

Looking forward, Jean-Frederic plans to open a hotel along with either a restaurant or a bar. “I want to build something for the company but also a little bit for our community, because there’s one frustration that I have: there's not much happening after 7 pm,” he says. “So I want my town to be a little bit more of a fun place and I want to see people enjoying themselves, even later during the day.” 

His vision for the hotel is that it would have an impressive mini bar that acts more as a cellar with great wines, proper glassware and a decanter. “I want wine people that love wine to come to Alsace to enjoy the place, the viticulture and the wine.” 

How To Spend A Day In Strasbourg, France

A visit to Strasbourg will give you the feeling that you’ve been dropped into a fairy tale. This French city in Alsace combines the best of France and Germany.

Strasbourg offers quaint architecture with an abundance of German timber framing known as fachwerk. The winding cobblestone lanes date back to Roman times. Canals and rivers run through and around the old town, and an imposing cathedral with a single steeple towers over the main square. The entire center island of Strasbourg, known as the Grand Ile, is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Strasbourg makes for a perfect day-trip destination, because it’s compact enough that you can easily explore it all on foot. The town is just a 2-hour train ride from Paris, so it’s easy to get there for a day of dining, shopping, and sightseeing.

Here are the best ways to spend a day in delightful Strasbourg.

Head For The Historic Center Of Strasbourg

Start your visit in the main market square of Strasbourg to get a feel for the vibe of this historic town. If you arrive by train, you can walk to the square in about 15 minutes. The square is lively and bordered by shops, eateries, and the iconic cathedral.

Nearby is the quieter Gutenberg Square, named for Johannes Gutenberg, inventor of the printing press. He lived here from 1434 to 1444, and his memorial dominates the square. This smaller square shows you the more residential side of Strasbourg. Look for a plaque denoting where writer Johann Wolfgang von Goethe lived in 1770.

Explore Petite France

Petite France is my favorite area of the Grand Ile. Be sure to make your way here, even if you don’t have much time. This western end of the island is full of half-timbered homes and shops that date to the 1500s. Strasbourg was once home to a thriving tanning industry, and you’ll see signs of this even today. Canals and hand-controlled locks, bridges, flower boxes full of red geraniums, and cafes make this a charming area. As you wander, look for the Ponts Couverts, the three towers on the canal that date to the 1300s.

Pro Tip: Enjoy Petite France early in the morning, before the crowds arrive. I first walked here right after an early breakfast, and so few people were out. The quiet of the water and centuries-old buildings were so peaceful.

Marvel At The Strasbourg Cathedral

This fine example of late Gothic architecture was the world’s tallest building from the mid-1600s to the mid-1800s. Author Victor Hugo visited and called it a “gigantic and delicate marvel.” Light filters through stained glass windows that are 700 to 900 years old.

Construction of the cathedral began in 1015, though the original structure ultimately burned. The cathedral you see today dates to the 12th century. Its history is intertwined with the tumultuous history of the region of Alsace. As Strasbourg went back and forth between German and French rule, the cathedral was briefly a Protestant church during the Reformation, but it returned to its Catholic roots in 1681. It suffered through three major wars but remained largely intact. During World War II, the Germans removed all the windows for safekeeping. The Allies found them in a salt mine at the end of the war and restored them to their proper places.

An interesting story about the cathedral involves how Goethe taught himself to overcome his fear of heights. He would often climb to the top of the dome of the cathedral and then step out onto a ledge that’s since been blocked off. He would look down and hope he could keep from falling to his death. Fortunately for us, he lived through this regimen to continue his writing.

This cathedral is also home to a fascinating astronomical clock that dates to the 1500s. It sounds each day at 12:30 p.m., solar noon.

Pro Tip: To see the once-a-day clock show, you must buy a ticket in the small gift shop (it costs about 6 euros). I didn’t see any signage indicating that, so you have to know to ask. A 20-minute video explains how the clock was designed. Then at 12:30 p.m., the clock chimes and the figures move in a circle. It’s well worth seeing.

Float Down The River

A boat ride on the River Ill in Strasbourg will take you in a circle around the old town. It’s a relaxing way to leisurely view the town’s main sights. Lasting 70 minutes, the boat tour goes through two locks. It’s fun to watch the driver run to the back of the boat and work the locks; you'll feel the water level changing. You can choose a covered or uncovered boat for your tour, depending on the weather and your preference.

You can buy your timed tickets at the tourist information building next to the cathedral in the main square. All cruises are run by Batorama.

Eating And Drinking In Strasbourg

Alsatian food is sure to please, since it blends the best of German and French cuisine. In Strasbourg, you are in the heart of the wine route of southern France, so you can count on the local wines to be wonderful, especially the Rieslings. Cheese is a specialty, too; the town of Munster is just a few miles away.

The Petite France area is a short walk from the cathedral, the shopping area, and the main square. I suggest eating in this picturesque area, at a restaurant with a view of the water if you’d like.

Here are two recommendations for a delicious lunch or dinner.

Le Lohkas

My most memorable meal in Strasbourg was at Le Lohkas. Built in 1676, the restaurant sits on a canal bank and was once used by tanners. And while I loved being in the middle of history, it was the food that won me over completely. The menu features fresh seafood and tasty sauces, and the service is top notch.

Maison Des Tanneurs

Once a tanner’s house, this structure dates to 1572. Now a popular restaurant, Maison des Tanneurs offers delicious food and charming ambience.

Shopping In Strasbourg

A car-free shopping street, the Rue des Hallebardes, lies between the main square and the train station. Here you’ll find elegant jewelry, clothing boutiques, leather goods, and perfume shops. For souvenirs, check out the small stores and pop-up stands around the cathedral.

I preferred to browse the little side streets that are full of local and specialty offerings. My favorite finds were a bakery -- the Woerle Boulangerie and Patisserie, founded in 1919 -- and the Terre d’Ours toy store. I walked by this store several times and finally went inside and adopted a small, adorable teddy that’s my favorite souvenir from this trip.

Where To Stay In Strasbourg

I stayed at Le Bouclier d’Or, which is on a side street off the main thoroughfare and very close to Petite France. It was close to all the sights while also allowing us to retreat to a quiet neighborhood where locals live. While the building dates to the 1500s, the interior is modern and welcoming.

The people who run the hotel went out of their way to help when I made a last-minute change to our dates. The buffet breakfast is elegant and delicious, too.

Pro Tip: Start early! Strasbourg is a major tourist destination, and the streets can get congested with large groups. I found that getting out early in the day allowed me to explore before the groups arrived. This was especially the case for the cathedral and Petite France.

If you are day-tripping and can’t arrive early, turn down the side lanes off the main streets. Any time of day, this is a great way to get a feel for Strasbourg without the crush of people.

Whether you come for a day or for a longer visit, you’ll find that Strasbourg is a medieval treasure that will steal your heart.

Top 10 Most Popular European Wine Varieties

Pinot Gris (Alsace)

Pinot Gris, also known as Pinot Grigio and Grauburgunder, is a white grape variety whose origins are believed to be in Burgundy, but the grape has shown amazing potential in Alsace—the region with which it is mostly associated nowadays.

In Alsace, Pinot Gris is considered a noble grape. In the past, it was mistakenly related with Hungarian Tokaj, and it was often called Tokaj d'Alsace. The wines made from Pinot Gris considerably differ in character than those found in other wine-growing regions.

They are dense and concentrated, with typical notes of white flowers, honey, ginger, apricot, lemons, spices, and dry fruit. The wines are typically dry with some off-dry varieties. They are usually full-bodied and pair well with poultry, feathered game, and pork.

SERVE WITH

Lobster Thermidor  Blanquette de veau  Egg foo young  Pâté  Miso ramen  Pâté en croûte  Foie gras  Quiche Lorraine  Tarte flambée  Turon  Shio ramen  Chicken Tajine  Salsiccia

PAIR WITH

Fourme de Montbrison  Haystack Peak  Lil' Moo  Seastack  Edelpilz  Ticklemore  Grey Owl  Mont Vully  Lappi  Mimolette  Prosciutto Cotto

Gewurztraminer (Alsace)

Gewurztraminer is a pink-skinned grape that produces some of the most aromatic and complex white wines in the world. The exact origin of Gewurztraminer is hard to trace, but the grape is related to Traminer family that is cultivated across Europe, and although Gewurztraminer has shown success in Germany, Austria, Australia, Washington and California, the French Alsace region remains its foreground.

Alsace produces varietals that are rich and typically deeply colored, often low in acidity and high in alcohol with exotic aromas of lychee and rose petals. Their character and the body heavily depends on the terroir and ripeness of the grapes, and they may range from dry to off-dry and sweet styles.

Dry Gewurztraminer from Alsace is a perfect match to cheese and savory, preferably spicy or creamy dishes, while sweeter styles may match fruit or spiced desserts.

SERVE WITH

Quiche Lorraine  Pho  Peking Duck  Ceviche  Chile relleno  Choucroute garnie  Tarte au maroilles  Asparagi al Gorgonzola  Chicken Tajine  Bicol Express  Pinangat

PAIR WITH

Yorkshire Wensleydale  Beacon Fell Traditional Lancashire Cheese  Livarot  Queso de La Serena  Maroilles  Kefalograviera  Oltermanni  Milleens  Ardrahan  Monterey Jack  Grayson  Waterloo  Dry Jack  Puzzone di Moena  Munster  Neufchâtel  Robiola di Roccaverano  Mozzarella  Durrus  Emmentaler  Limburger  Cashel Blue  Schabziger  Brunost  Appenzeller  Sunlight  Gubbeen  Monte Enebro  Burwash Rose  Wilde Weide  Haystack Peak  Maasdam

Perfect Fall White Wines for $25 and Under

White wine’s diversity means that even though the summer evenings of Vinho Verde by the pool are over, you can still pop open more full-bodied varieties and bottles produced into a richer style year-round.

To help you celebrate cooler days and longer nights, we’ve rounded up eight bottles for $25 or less that highlight how delicious a full-bodied white wine can be. This list includes something for everyone, from a rich, oaked Napa Valley Chardonnay to a Willamette Valley white Pinot Noir, Alsatian Gewürtztraminer and a qvevri-fermented, skin-contact Georgian wine made from Rkatsiteli-Mtsvane.

Emile Beyer 2017 Tradition Gewurztraminer (Alsace); $22, 90 points. The nose of this wine is subtle, whispering with ripe pear and gentle peach. The palate comes in with concentration and a pithiness that lends structure alongside rich and juicy lemon freshness. The finish is dry and appetizing. —Anne Krebiehl, MW

The 5 Wines We Should Be Drinking More Of

Some wines simply don’t get the attention and respect they deserve. Our wine columnist’s top 5 underrated bottles are overachievers when it comes to quality, quaffability and value for money.

From left: Trimbach Riesling, 2016 Cabriz, 2018 Southern Right Sauvignon Blanc, Champalou Brut Nonvintage, 2014 Woodlands ‘Margaret’ Margaret River.

Alsace Riesling

Although Alsace produces some of the most interesting white wines made in France, they’ve never been a particularly easy sell in the U.S. For one, they tend to come in tall, slender, Germanic-looking bottles, which only confuses matters. Though Alsace belonged to Germany from 1871 to 1918, its Rieslings have a style distinct from that of the German Rieslings associated with that bottle shape. Some fault, too, lies with the producers, who don’t seem to focus overmuch on making their wines better understood by Americans. And the way the wines are categorized and sold here certainly doesn’t help. When I went looking for Rieslings from Alsace in my local wine shop, I found them grouped under “dessert wines.” Never mind that nearly all the wines displayed were actually dry.

It doesn't help that there are winemakers in Alsace who call their Rieslings dry yet vinify them sweet. But Trimbach’s are reliably dry and also reliably good. One of the oldest and most highly regarded producers in Alsace, this winery was founded in the quaint town of Ribeauvillé in 1626. The Trimbach Riesling ($17) is dry, crisp, elegant, food friendly and marked by a pleasing floral note.

Alsace - The New Generation Speaks Out (Part Two)

Part Two of my series on the new generation of Alsace producers.

Mélanie Pfister, Domaine Pfister

Domaine Pfister (Dahlenheim) - Situated in the town of Dahlenheim, west of Strasbourg, Domaine Pfister dates back to 1780. The family owns 25 acres of vineyards, and specializes in Riesling, while their Cremant d’Alsace is a standout in its category, as is their Pinot Noir. Mélanie Pfister is the eighth generation of her family to make wine.

Tom Hyland: What is the biggest advantage Alsatian wines have in the world of wine? What is their strongest identity?

Mélanie Pfister: Wines of Alsace have a double identity: grape variety, as well as origin/soil. Varietal speaks to everyone, while origin is something special.

Hyland: Tell me about your production. What is your leading wine in terms of quantity?

Pfister: At Domaine Pfister, we produce about 60.000 bottles a year, mainly Riesling (dry!) and Crémant d’Alsace.

Hyland: How much do you export? How many countries do you export your wines to?

Pfister: We export about 30% of our wines, to a dozen countries.

Hyland: Has there been much in the way of climate change over the past 10-15 years? If so, how? What must you do to combat the effects of climate change? Has climate change been helpful in any way?

Pfister: Climate change is obvious when we look at the starting date of picking. Last year, in 2018, we began August 22 for the Crémant d’Alsace grapes… when my father was (picking), he used to start in October.

From a general point of view, climate change has been helpful between our two generations: wines are better now than in the past. Grapes are ripe, chaptalisation is not needed anymore. But on the scale you mention (the 10-15 years), I feel that everything is going faster, and that we reach some extremes. To balance climate change, vineyard management must change: yields (not too low), canopy management (not too high). The date of picking has to be really precise: to be reactive, our crew is nowadays much bigger than 20 years ago.

Hyland: How have your wines changed for the better over the past decade? Have you received comments from importers or consumers as to the style of your wines or Alsatian wines in general?

Over the past decade, we experienced very different types of vintages. Cooler ones (2013, 2010, 2008), and other very early and warm (2018, 2017, 2015, 2011…). So it is tough to make conclusions on that short period of time.

The positive thing 10 years after, is that our vines are older: their roots are deeper, stronger, and more able to resist to extreme vintages.

Hyland: Alsatian wines are not as well known by consumers as other wines of France (especially Burgundy and Bordeaux) or as well known as wines from California or some regions of Italy. Why is that? Is the subject of Alsatian wines too confusing to consumers (too many varieties)? Is it because consumers don't know these varieties? What must the producers of Alsace do to change consumer awareness and improve sales? What must they do to have sommeliers show more interest in Alsatian wines?

Alsatian wines deserve more recognition, definitely. Our wines age beautifully, show a lot of depth and nuances, and are part, like Burgundy and Bordeaux, of the “grands vins” from France. Alsace of course can’t be summarized in one style. If people know that it is a white wine region, often they struggle to qualify properly our wines. Of course, we have many varieties, all very different from each other. And we also have different levels of sweetness, which do not appear on the label. Clarifying the dry/semi-dry/semi-sweet/sweet styles is absolutely necessary for understanding and then improving sales. Wines of Alsace already generate more interest in some places, but it is still confidential. Focusing on specific varieties or focusing the promotional efforts in one market like Alsace Rocks campaign in the US are good options.

Notes on current Pfister releases:

Cremant d'Alsace - A blend of 50% Chardonnay, 25% Pinot Blanc, 25% Auxerrois. 25 months on the lees, which is much more than the typical Cremant d'Alsace. Aromas of citrus and apple peel. Medium-bodied, this is very dry (between 3 and 4 grams dosage, making this an Extra Brut) with a slight bitterness in the finish. Beautiful complexity and good acidity, this is a "serious" Cremant d'Alsace. Enjoy over the next 2-3 years. Excellent

Riesling "Tradition" 2017 - Complex aromas of sour apple, peach, apricot and yellow peony. Medium-full with tart acidity. Very dry, very good persistence. Better in a few years. Peak in 5-7 years. Excellent

Riesling Grand Cru Engelberg 2014 - Aromas of yellow peach, apricot, orange crocus and saffron. Medium-full with a rich mid-palate, soft finish and excellent complexity. Very fine varietal character. Enjoy over the next 5-7 years. Excellent

"Cuvée 8" 2016 - A blend of Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris and Muscat. Lovely floral perfumes - apricots, lilacs and a touch of honey. Off-dry, this is a very appealing wine that offers excellent persistence and complexity and would pair well with a wide range of foods. A true crowd pleaser. Enjoy over the next 3-5 years. Outstanding

Pinot Noir 2017 - Given that Alsace is predominantly a white wine region, Pinot Noir from here is usually overlooked; this wine may change a lot of minds, however. Lovely pale garnet; inviting aromas of morel cherry, wild strawberry and pink roses. Medium-full with very good concentration. Good acidity, lovely balance and subtle notes of red spice (cardamom, nutmeg) in the finish. Such a charming and delicious wine! This is best enjoyed with a slight chill. Enjoy over the next 3-5 years. Excellent

Anne Trimbach

Trimbach - Trimbach, located in the quaint village of Ribeauvillé, was established in 1626, and is not only one of the oldest and best-known domaines in Alsace, but it is also one of the great ambassadors of the region’s wines. I spoke with Anne Trimbach, daughter of Pierre, the winemaker, about her family’s wines.

Tom Hyland: Your family is among the most famous, producing some of the most critically acclaimed wines of Alsace. Do you feel a special responsibility, to continually lead the way in Alsace?

Anne Trimbach: Of course, it is not just “taking over”a family business. It’s representing a whole region, everywhere I go, I spread the message about my family’s wines but also Alsace in general.

Hyland: Tell me the difference between Riesling and Gewurztraminer in Alsace. What are the characteristics and aging potential of each? What are your favorite food pairings with each?

Trimbach: These two have just nothing to compare with each other. Riesling is, at Trimbach, always dry, precise, pure, and when it comes to the Grand Cru wines, they have a wonderful mineral background, a lingering finish, a complexity. Top Rieslings can age for decades. Food pairings with Riesling can be magical. I love oysters and a glass of dry Riesling. Or Thai food and Riesling. Or just a beautiful piece of fish, and Riesling.           

Gewurz is of course much more exotic and spicy. It has less acidity but very unique flavors. It’s great with some Asian cuisines, some Indian cuisines, and duck breast, for example. Many others in my mind, but not enough space on one page to write them all.

Hyland: Has there been much in the way of climate change over the past 10-15 years? If so, how? What must you do to combat the effects of climate change? Has climate change been helpful in any way?

Trimbach: Yes of course, but not only in the last 10-15 years, in the last 30 years I would say we see a big change. There are really not a lot of things to do, except preserve the environment as much as we can.

The grapes are definitely riper, as degrees are higher. We do not need to chaptalise anymore. But we have slightly lower acidity levels.

Hyland: Alsatian wines are not as well known by consumers as other wines of France (especially Burgundy and Bordeaux) or as well known as wines from California or some regions of Italy. Why is that? Is the subject of Alsatian wines too confusing to consumers (too many varieties)? Is it because consumers don't know these varieties? What must the producers of Alsace do to change consumer awareness and improve sales? What must they do to have sommeliers show more interest in Alsatian wines?

Trimbach: First, it is a very small wine region in terms of size, compared to Burgundy or Bordeaux, California, etc. Second, it’s a white wine region, so there’s nothing comparable with those red wine producing areas (majority of reds). And then, people tend to forget Alsace has only been back to France for a few decades. I don’t think Alsace is confusing. I think Alsace is fantastic but our people are way to humble to say it out loud! We are now very far away from what the older generation remembers: too sweet wines, too much sulfur, a too folkloric or kitschy region. Alsace has many talented winemakers, newcomers, a young generation that travels a lot.  

We travel as much as we can to touch as many people as we can. We need to spread a clear message: Alsace has evolved and improved, give it a try!

Notes on current Trimbach releases:

Muscat Reserve 2016 - Aromas of orange blossom, apricot and golden poppies – lovely! Medium-bodied, this is fresh and very aromatic with good acidity, although the finish is a bit short. In all, a tasty sipper for lighter chicken and Thai dishes. 1-3 years. Very Good

Pinot Noir Reserve 2017 - Aromas of black cherry, cardamon and red poppy. Medium-bodied, this has very good ripeness, balanced acidity and delicate black spice notes in the finish. Moderate tannins, good persistence and nicely balanced. Enjoy over the next 2-3 years. Very Good

Pinot Gris Reserve Personelle 2014 - Aromas of golden apples, papaya and dried yellow flowers. Medium-full with very good concentration. Lovely harmony, very good acidity, impressive persistence and subtle notes of saffron in the finish. Very appealing, delicious and stylish. Enjoy over the next 4-5 years. Excellent

Riesling "Cuvée Frédéric Emile" 2011 - Aromas of apricot pit, quince and orange poppy aromas. Medium-full with excellent concentration. Rich finish with excellent fruit persistence, good acidity and a light nuttiness. Wonderful complexity - enjoyable now, but will be at its best in another 5-7 years. Outstanding

Alsace - The New Generation Speaks Out (Part One)

Three generations of the Hugel family. Jean-Frédéric is kneeling, bottom right

There is always a challenge for the new generation of wine producers, no matter where they live. Namely, how do we proceed in our work? Do we continue to make wines in the style our fathers and grandfathers did? Or do we implement a few changes to show our approach?

This is certainly true in Alsace, that lovely corner of northeast France, where some of the world's greatest white wines are crafted. But the younger generation has other issues they must address to stay relevant in today's wine industry. Namely, how do they get more consumers and wine buyers to take a look at Alsatian wines, which are criminally under represented on wine lists and retail shelves in America? Also, how do we compete with other white (and red, to a lesser degree) wines from around the world and make our wines better known and more attractive to younger wine drinkers?

Recently, I spoke with four of the newest generation of wine producers from Alsace: Jean-Frédéric Hugel from Hugel, located in Riquewihr; Laure Adam of JB Adam in Ammerschwisr; Mélanie Pfister of Domaine Pfister in Dahlenheim, and Anne Trimbach of Trimbach in Ribeauville.

The interviews are extensive, so I am dividing this subject into two articles; in this part, I will share the thoughts of Hugel and Adam, while the replies from Pfister and Trimbach will appear in the next edition.

Interview with Jean Frédéric Hugel

Tom Hyland: Your family is among the most famous, producing some of the most critically acclaimed wines of Alsace. Do you feel a special responsibility, to continually lead the way in Alsace?

Jean- Frédéric Hugel: Absolutely! Very often our wines are the first Alsace wines people try across the world; in places in Myanmar, Vietnam, Indonesia, they are often the only Alsace wines available. With regards to that, we have a responsibility to our customers, first, producing the best wines possible, but also to our colleagues, who also make wines with pride and heart. If we want Alsace in its deserved status of greatest white wine producing region on the planet, it starts with producing amazing quality at every level. Then I don't feel we should tell people what to do, as wine remains extremely personal and it should remain so. The market will decide then.

Hyland: Tell me the difference between Riesling and Gewurztraminer in Alsace. What are the characteristics and aging potential of each. What are your favorite food pairings with each?

Hugel: They are the two opposites. Riesling produces restrained, toned and elegant wines; Gewurztraminer opulent, generous and aromatic. The difference between a Woody Allen and a Jim Carrey, if you wish. But when it comes to ageing potential, which we pretty much elevate to the definition of nobleness for a wine in the family, both are very close. We age Gewurztraminer the same way we age Riesling, but not for the same reason. Riesling, over time will empower, gain in complexity, gain weight, round its acidity, while Gewurz will tone down, refine and digest its eventual sweetness (all Gewurz aren't sweet, always good to remind people, Riesling neither by the way).

Pairing wise, I would pair Riesling with almost everything, but I am a bit of a Riesling freak. In a simple way, anything you would add a squeeze of lemon or lime to, or a touch of vinegar, you would pair it well with Riesling. Acidity is a flavor enhancer, take rice and raw fish, could it be more boring? Add rice vinegar and you have the recipe of a dish that took the world as a storm in the past decade. Well, Sushi is a great pairing to Riesling, grilled fish, crudos and ceviches are born for Riesling. And then the more soil and age you have on a wine, the more "meaty" you can go; for a 10 year old single vineyard wine, I would consider a bit more fat, butter and cream sauces, a beurre blanc (butter sauce) with that fish. I would even pour it with a beef tartar, goat cheese... With Riesling the sky is the limit. But acidity is key!

Gewurz on the other hand is less subtle, different pairing style, not here to compliment the dish, but to fight it. Gewurz is the wine for bold, flavorful dishes. I see many people intimidated by the grape, so here are a few personal guidelines: Gewurz loves spices: amongst my favorite pairings, a green or red Thai curry, the power of the curry associated with the roundness of coconut milk fits Gewurz perfectly. Indian curries or Malaysian dishes work equally as well. Gewurz also loves smoke; a dry Gewurz with smoked salmon is a benchmark, works with eel, sturgeon, herring too. Finally, Gewurz loves sweet, bold and earthy: no wonder it is such a success at Thanksgiving; the turkey matters less there than all the side dishes, pumpkin, bacon, stuffing and sweet potatoes, chestnuts, all of them Gewurz friendly ingredients. And finally pungent: cheeses, the stronger the better.

Jean-Frédéric-Hugel

Hyland: Has there been much in the way of climate change over the past 10-15 years? If so, how? What must you do to combat the effects of climate change? Has climate change been helpful in any way?

Hugel: If you need (another) proof of climate change, ask the vintners, because grapes and their transformed products are great witnesses of it. My grandfather at the beginning of his career saw a regular harvest start on October 15th. That was a good average date to bring pickers in and start a 6 week-long harvest. Today we harvest in 4 to 5 weeks and start on average 15th of September! 2018 and 2017 respectively, even 7th and 5th of September! And the sugar content in the grapes are way higher than at the time. And that is in one lifetime!

Overall in Alsace, climate change has been a blessing. Keep in mind we are a northern wine region, our main challenge is ripening our grapes. I should say was, because the two unripe vintages per decade are long gone. Good thing, because they would be impossible to sell today, in our globalized world. And the two exceptional vintages per decade have gone to four, maybe even six! My ancestors would not believe it if they came back to life.

Nonetheless we are seeing the first issues with climate as well, our Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminers often reach 14; 14,5, 15% of alcohol, despite early picking. The Gewurz show higher residual sugar than they used to, and we are generally known for producing dry wines in the family, so this is not helping us. The profile of wines has changed also due to shorter ripening seasons, the aromatic development of the wines is different, we sometimes feel a little bit of nostalgia, knowing the wines our ancestors used to produce will most likely never be made again.

Hyland: Alsace wines are not as well known by consumers as other wines of France (especially Burgundy and Bordeaux) or as well known as wines from California or some regions of Italy. Why is that? Is the subject of Alsatian wines too confusing to consumers (too many varieties)? Is it because consumers don't know these varieties? What must the producers of Alsace do to change consumer awareness and improve sales? What must they do to have sommeliers show more interest in Alsace wines?

Hugel: Alsace is a unique region, a complex region, just take its history, torn between France and Germany, producing wine "the French way" with "German grapes", its culture and history is Allemanic, its nationality is clearly French. The flute shaped bottle is of the Rhine, but it is on the (only) French side of the Rhine. The wines are French, but only for the past 70 years.

Being unique is a great advantage of our region, unfortunately, it is also a greater deal of explaining, promoting, sharing and educating. Keep in mind we are comparing Alsace, 15,000 hectares with Bordeaux: 118,000 hectares, Burgundy, 30,000 hectares. We are a relatively small region compared to the rest of the French wine country. (Editor's note: A hectare equals 2.47 acres.)

I do not know what others should do, all I can say is that when I open a bottle of an old Riesling, Pinot Gris or Gewurztraminer, there is no sommelier, however interested, knowledgeable, passionate, that doesn't ends up impressed. And generally if tasted blind people get it wrong by 30 years. The wines of Alsace are impressive through their ability to age, to show terroir and to express over time. They are the greatest white wines on the planet and deserve to reconquer this status.

The rest is putting them in people's mouths.

Tasting notes on Hugel wines:

Gewurztraminer “Grossi Laüe” 2011 - In Alsatian dialect, Grossi Laüe refers to the finest vineyards; this term is similar to Grosses Gewächs in Germany or Grand Cru in Burgundy. For Hugel then, their Grossi Laüe wines mark a return to their exceptional family values. Aromas of lychee, Anjou pear and cinnamon. Medium-full with a rich mid-palate, good acidity and notable persistence. Offering excellent varietal character and impressive harmony, this is nearing peak; enjoy now and over the next 2-3 years. Excellent

Riesling “Grossi Laüe” 2013 - Bright golden yellow; aromas of apricot, yellow peach and yellow pansy. Rich mid-palate, good acidity, lovely ripeness, excellent persistence, outstanding varietal character; slightly lush character. Dry, complex finish with marvelous complexity. Delicious now – enjoy over the next 7-10 years. Outstanding

Pinot Gris “Grossi Laüe” 2011 - Rich, deep yellow; exotic aromas of red apples, guava and honey. Medium-full with excellent concentration, this is a luscious wine with distinct notes of yellow spice in the finish, backed by good acidity and impressive persistence. This displays secondary aromas and flavors and has marvelous complexity and beautiful varietal purity. Stunning example of Pinot Gris. Enjoy over the next 3-5 years. Superb

Laure Adam, JB Adam

Interview with Laure Adam

Laure Adam, J-B Adam

Tom Hyland: What is the biggest advantage Alsatian wines have in the world of wine? What is their strongest identity?

Laure Adam: An incredible diversity between grapes varieties and terroir for a small region. Our strength is Riesling, the king of grapes varieties in Alsace, able to flourish on our terroir to create unique wines.

Hyland: Tell me about your production. What is your leading wine in terms of quantity?

Adam: 20 hectares of vines cultivated in biodynamic + purchase of grapes. Crémant d’Alsace represents 20% of the production, then Riesling, Pinot Noir and Gewurztraminer.

Hyland: Has there been much in the way of climate change over the past 10-15 years? If so, how? What must you do to combat the effects of climate change? Has climate change been helpful in any way?

Adam: Over the past 10 years we observe that the beginning of the harvest is earlier every year (more than one month compared to 10 years ago). The fact that we cultivate our vines in biodynamic help us a lot and then we adapt our vinification every year. The positive effect of this is for the Pinot Noir, the phenolic maturity and extraction is better than before (for example the 2018 Pinot Noir is very concentrated and very qualitative).

Hyland: How have your wines changed for the better over the past decade? Have you received comments from importers or consumers as to the style of your wines or Alsatian wines in general?

Adam: Our wines are much more concentrated, elegant and have a salinity that our clients enjoy.

Hyland: Alsatian wines are not as well known by consumers as other wines of France (especially Burgundy and Bordeaux) or as well known as wines from California or some regions of Italy. Why is that? Is the subject of Alsatian wines too confusing to consumers (too many varieties)? Is it because consumers don't know these varieties? What must the producers of Alsace do to change consumer awareness and improve sales? What must they do to have sommeliers show more interest in Alsatian wines?

Adam: We are a small region with an incredible diversity of wines, it is a strength and a weakness at the same time. In our domaine, we tried to simplify the understanding, for example we have a sweetness scale on the back label. Also we have a consistent style of wines for the past 400 years especially for pinot blanc, sylvaner and riesling which are dry every year!

Tasting notes on JB Adam wines:

“Sec Si” 2018 - A blend of 70% Sylvaner, 30% Muscat. Appealing aromas of apricot, yellow peach and orange blossom. Medium-bodied with delicious ripe fruit, very good acidity and balance, this is quite tasty and works well on it own or with simple chicken or pork dishes. You don’t think about this, you merely drink it! Enjoy over the next 1-2 years. Very Good

L'Auxerrois "Vielles Vignes" 2016 - Auxerrois is a varietal planted throughout Alsace; it is typically used as a blending varietal. Deep yellow; aromas of dried pear, dried yellow flowers and a light brown herbs. Medium-bodied, this is quite dry, with good acidity and very good complexity. Not overly ripe or powerful, this is a nice wine to pair with quiche, paté or sautéed vegetables. Enjoy over the next 2-3 years. Very Good

Pinot Blanc “Les Natures” 2016 - Aromas of apple peel, quince and Bosc pear. Medium-bodied, this has excellent freshness, very good acidity and a dry finish with subtle spice notes. This is a delightful wine that offers much more character than most examples of Alsatian Pinot Blanc. Enjoy over the next 2-3 years. Excellent

Riesling “Les Natures” 2017 - Aromas of lemon peel, lilacs and orange blossom. Medium-full with very good concentration. Lovely varietal character, good acidity and persistence; excellent harmony. Enjoy over the next 3-5 years. Excellent

Riesling Grand Cru Kaefferkopf 2015 - Attractive aromas of yellow peach, apricot, kumquat and yellow poppy. Medium-full, this is beautifully ripe with excellent varietal purity. Impressive persistence, very good acidity and complexity. Precise and extremely clean - excellent winemaking. Delicious now – enjoy over the next 5-7 years, perhaps longer. Outstanding

Crémant d'Alsace: The French Sparkling Wine You Should Be Drinking More Of

Allimant-Laugner Crémant

Champagne may still be king, but France produces plenty of great sparkling wine beyond the Champagne region too, and for a fraction of the price. There are eight appellations for crémant sparkling wine that's produced in the same méthode champenoise with secondary fermentation in the bottle, resulting in a dryer wine with tighter structure and finer mousse compared to sweet prosecco. Crémants are required to be hand-harvested with a minimum of one year aging including nine months on lees, a labor-intensive production that ensures higher quality at a more affordable price simply because these wines don't have the brand recognition of champagne.

You've most likely seen crémants from the Loire and Burgundy, but Crémant d'Alsace is an underrated gem, representing more than a quarter of the total production for the Alsace region and more than half of all French crémant. The Crémant d'Alsace appellation was only recognized in 1976, just one year after the Loire and Burgundy, so this is still a relatively new category. Bottles generally retail for $25 and under – as much as you'll pay for a glass of champagne at a restaurant or bar.

Allimant-Laugner Vineyards in Alsace

Julien Dopff pioneered sparkling wine-making in Alsace, after seeing and tasting champagne at the 1900 Paris Exposition and learning the secondary fermentation method in Épernay. He began by importing grape must from Champagne, but ultimately realized that creamy pinot blanc and Alsace's other white grape varietals are excellent for making sparking wine as well. The crémant designation allows for the use of a wider variety of grapes than in champagne and in Alsace, sparkling wine is made predominantly from pinot blanc, pinot gris, riesling, auxerrois, chardonnay and pinot noir grapes.

Today, Dopff creates 10 different crémants, although only half of those are exported to the United States. The biggest producers of Crémant d'Alsace that you'll find in the US include Lucien Albrecht and Pierre Sparr but there are many others. Some growers are reluctant to use their best grapes for crémant because they can fetch more making single varietal grand cru still wines. But here are five of the best:

Dopff Crémants d'Alsace

Dopff Crémant Brut Nature Bio

This organic wine is made with zero dosage, for a bone dry 2.7 grams/liter of residual sugar. A foundation of pinot blanc is augmented with 35% auxerrois and 10% pinot noir for a bright yellow crémant with floral aromas. A creamy mouthfeel with notes of toasted apple make this one refreshing to sip on its own, and excellent with a variety of cheeses, seafood and pizza.

Allimant-Laugner Crémant Rosé

Strawberries andcherries pirouette across the palate in this elegant light salmon brut rosé madefrom 100% pinot noir, like all crémant rosés in Alsace. The family estate dates back to 1724 and today 29-year-old Nicolas Laugner works in the vineyard and cellar with his father. Half of their total crémant production is exported to the United States, so it's readily available on the West Coast and Colorado.

Nicolas Laugner

Domaine Muré Crémant d'Alsace Rosé

Domaine Muré is famous for their excellent pinot noir and the brut rosé is no exception. Only 5,000 bottles of this wine are produced each year and the delicate raspberry aromas bely a strong finish. This wine is made more like a still wine, without too much exuberance in the bubbles. Véronique Muré and her brother Thomas represent the 12th generation in the family business, which began in 1650. Véronique is also president of Les diVINes d'Alsace, an organization of women wine professionals in the region. You'll find bottles in Texas and the Midwest.

Veronique and Thomas Muré

Boeckel 2016 Crémant Extra Brut Chardonnay

Thomas Boeckel has the oldest chardonnay vines in Alsace, planted by his father in 1968, which he's using to make an incredible organic crémant that could truly be mistaken for champagne with its fine mousse and racy lemon zest flavors. Boeckel only produces between 4,000-6,000 bottles each year with his small lot on the Zotzenberg Grand Cru and this wine will only get better with age.

Rietsch Crémant d'Alsace Extra Brut

The playful penguin on the front label hides a seriously complex wine, a crémant made with grape must for the tirage, thus using only wild, natural yeast for secondary fermentation. The current vintage is made from a blend of auxerrois, chardonnay and pinot gris grapes from the 2015 and 2016 harvest with hazelnut and brioche notes, persistent bubbles and a lingering saline finish.

Allimnat-Laugner Brut Rosé

Wines from Alsace and Cheeses for Pairing

When the French #Winophiles, an extraordinary group of wineloving writers who crave all things French, have a roundup of articles about a specific topic, I’m in. This month, our theme is French Wine and Cheese and honestly, I don’t know anyone who can’t wrap their palate around both! From Bordeaux to Provence and everywhere in between, beautiful wines can be complemented with a flavorful cheese. And just like le vin, les fromages have their own AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) or AOP (Appellation d’Origine Protégée) designation to indicate the region or village from where the cheese is produced.

The Wines of Alsace

Having just attended Alsace Rocks, an incredibly organized and compelling master class and tasting of a wide variety of wines, I knew that pairing cheeses with so many varieties from the region would be a lesson in deliciousness (and information to have in our back pocket for the next gathering of friends and family)! Throughout the event, I was impressed with the plethora of wines and their unique expressions of terroir.

Located in the northeastern corner of France, Alsace boasts a geological diversity like no other region in the world as it follows the long and narrow Rhine River. The Vosges Mountains provide stunning scenery for anyone who desires to journey upon the Alsace Wine Route, a 106-mile path through more than 100 bucolic wine villages. (Click here and be inspired to plan your trip. Perhaps I’ll see you there!)

Although many think of Riesling as the only white grape produced in Alsace, the region is actually responsible for six other varieties. Exuding styles ranging from light-bodied and fresh to full-bodied and bold, mouthwatering and flavorful Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Gewurtztraminer, Sylvaner, Muscat and Pinot Noir are cultivated. The wines I tasted at Alsace Rocks prove that this region offers exceptional food friendly wines to more than satisfy any palate.

In Alsace, 53 appellations have been designated. Wines from AOC Alsace are affordable and easy drinking, Cremant d’Alsaceare sparkling wines produced in the traditional method and the 51 unique Grand Cru appellations offer wines of rich complexity and structure. Soils are just as diverse as the wines. Clay, limestone, granite, calcareous-limestone, marl, dolomite, gypsum and Keuper are soils those upon which premium vineyards are located. (Please click here to learn more details about these fascinating wines.)

Pairing Wine and Cheese

How about those wine and cheese pairings? The process may be an intimidating exercise for many of us. With so many choices, where do we begin?

I referred to a wonderful resource, Tasting Wine & Cheese by Adam Centamore, for guidance. He writes that “pairing is bringing two or more ingredients together in a way that creates an impression that is grander than the ingredients alone provide.” We must consider dominant flavors, dominant tastes, temperature, texture, spice, tannins in the wine, fat and salt. The trick is to identify your own preferences and decide whether to pair a wine that contrasts or complements the cheese… or vice versa. Of course, everyone’s palate is different, so experiment – anything goes if you love it!

I usually begin my pairing process by considering the style of cheese (creamy, soft and young; hard, aged, salty and sharp, blue and filled with aromas; or fresh, mild and easily spreadable) that I’d like to try with a specific wine. Like Centamore, I decide whether to complement or contrast the wines and cheeses… A light Sauvignon Blanc with a light Brie or a bold Cabernet with an aged Cheddar? The possibilities are endless.

Armed with information from Centamore’s book and conversations with local cheese experts, I compiled a list of some of my favorite wines tasted at Alsace Rocks with delectable cheeses for a memorable pairing. Enjoy!

Wines from Alsace and Cheeses for Pairing

Famille Hugel Pinot Gris Classic 2016 ($17) was not only refreshing, but an affordable choice for anyone who craves this variety from Alsace. In this wine, the grapes were cultivated on soils of clay and limestone. Of a more heavy and complex style than its Italian counterpart, Pinot Grigio, I appreciated this wine’s floral aromas, notes of green apple and lush fruits and its crisp finish. Pair Roelli Haus Select Cheddar Pasteurized Cow milk from Annatto WI, Brebirousse d’Argental of sheep milk from France, or pressed-rind cheeses such as Comté, Beaufort, Appenzeller and Gruyère.

The stunning Weinbach Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg Cuvée Ste Catherine 2016 ($62) from vineyards planted on granite soil, was beautifully aromatic with lively acidity. Dry, complex and structured, rich aromas and flavors are guaranteed to be a luscious companion with cheeses that have body and weight. Pair this Grand Cru Riesling with Tomme de Savoie or Morbier, both of cow’s milk from France, von Trapp Oma of cow’s milk from the United States, your favorite creamy goat cheese or medium-bodied Gruyère and Cheddar.

Willm Gewurztraminer Reserve 2015 ($15), of grapes grown from vines on soil of gravel, clay, limestone and sandstone, burst with aromas of lychee, petrol and rose petals. On the palate, notes of spice with mangos, peaches, apricot and ginger were mesmerizing. And the cheeses for pairing? How about a few that have as much flavor and aromas as the Gewurtztraminer? Terre des Volcans Fourme d’Ambert Pasteurized Cow Blue from the Auvergne, Hooligan of cow’s milk from the United States, Ardrahan of cow’s milk from Ireland or a delectable Parmigiano-Reggiano will be memorable.

Four wines of Pinot Blanc, each grown on clay soil, Domaine Pfister Pinot Blanc 2017 ($30), Domaines Shlumberger Pinot Blanc les Princes Abbes 2017 ($17), Kuentz-Bas Pinot Blanc 2016 ($15) and Famille Hugel Pinot Blanc Cuvée les Amours 2016 ($15) were refreshing, dry and crisp with notes of citrus and snappy minerality. Pair a favorite Brie or one with washed rind such as Tallegio or Fontina for a lovely contrast.

Paul Blanck Muscat d’Alsace 2016 ($13) was of 65% Muscat d’Alsace and 35% Muscat Ottonel grown in vineyards on gravel, sand and calcareous clay. On the nose and palate, I found a wine that was bright and vibrant with elements of citrus, white flowers and just the slightest hint of spice. For pairing, keep it simple and choose fresh ricotta, a mild and creamy bleu cheese, a smoked Provolone or Gorgonzola.

Camille Braun Sylvaner Vin Nature 2018 ($25.99) was of grapes cultivated on sandstone soil. Vibrant acidity framed notes of honey, melon and chalk and this fresh, delightful wine will be a lovely pairing with generous slices of Manchego, Edam or Gouda.

A 100% Pinot Noir grown on soils of granite with blue marne, the Rolly Gasssmann Pinot Noir 2015 ($29.99) was balanced and structured with fresh red fruit, earth and a hint of spice. Flavorful cheeses for pairing may be a light Cheddar, Comte, Gouda, Gruyère, Port Salut or French Chévre.

I savored sips of Crémant d’Alsace before the tasting… and afterwards. What a delicious, refreshing way to prepare my palate for so much deliciousness and to end the day with more. The lovely Jean-Baptiste Adam Crémant d’Alsace Bio les Natures NV ($15) was of 100% Riesling and produced in the same manner as Champagne (the second fermentation takes place in the bottle). This delightful bubbly is from vines grown on granite and limestone soil. Due to its minerality, bright acidity and vibrant citrus flavors, choose Marieke Young Gouda with Foenegreek Farmstead Raw Cow Milk from Thorp, Wisconsin, a savory aged Comte Fort Saint-Antoine or a French Gruyère aged for ten months for a surprise taste sensation.

Cheers! ~ Cindy

Wines You Should be Drinking This Summer, According to a Wine Expert.

Summer is prime time for enjoying wine, whether it's paired with food or sipped by itself on a sunny day. For a few new and exciting wine recommendations this season, we turned to Jennifer Wagoner, Wine Director at Sepia and Proxi in Chicago.

Q: What is a favorite summertime wine, and what would you recommend trying in addition to it?

A: Rosé is always a popular summer sipper, and I would be lying if I said I don’t love a good rosé. Bubbles are also a solid choice. If you want to enjoy something with value and quality, I would look to Crémant from throughout France.

Q: Is there a wine that's particularly refreshing on a hot summer day?

A: Wines with lighter body and freshness are always welcome when the heat of the day kicks in. I suggest Txakolina from Basque Country in Spain. It’s fresh and lower in alcohol, so you can enjoy a few glasses without fear of feeling less-than-great post-picnic.

Q: Is there a white that you particularly like for summer?

A: I’m a bit of a Riesling gal. It is incredibly versatile, and there is a spectrum of styles in which it is made. There is something for everyone. For me, summertime is Riesling time.

Q: A lot of people associate summer with white wines. But is there a red that you particularly like for summer?

A: I’m currently into chilled Pais from Maule in Chile. It’s bright and earthy and can come from vines that are well over 100 years old. It’s delicious alone or with savory snacks.

Q: Summer is prime time for grilling. What is a versatile wine that pairs well with grilled meats and vegetables?

A: Cooler-climate Syrah or Cru Beaujolais. I like a bit of spice on my reds when it comes to pairing with grilled meats and veggies. Pinot Gris is also a versatile varietal that is delicious on its own, but plays well with many different flavor profiles.

Q: What's a wine that’s perfect for drinking on a patio outside?

A: Again, I have to say bubbles. I clearly have an affinity for effervescence, but for good reason.

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Wines of Alsace brings its top-quality wines, diversity of soils and passionate producers to Chicago this June with the month-long Alsace Rocks campaign.

Renowned for its world-class white wines, which make up 90 percent of all production, Alsace grows seven main varieties, including Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Noir, Muscat and Sylvaner. And, with 53 appellations, Alsace has a wine to impress anyone, whether you’re looking for an easy-going, well-priced wine, a Crémant d’Alsace sparkling wine made in the traditional method or a more complex Grand Cru wine. Stay up to date at @DrinkAlsace or visit www.AlsaceRocks.com for more information.