Crémant d’Alsace is one of the best and bubbliest value propositions in wine. Hailing from northeastern France, near the German and Swiss borders, these sparklers are produced in the same method as Champagne. From bone-dry bruts, to tart rosés, to gently priced bottles perfect for mixing into sparkling cocktails, Crémant d’Alsace keeps holidays bright—without breaking the bank.
Food & Wine: 3 Best Fall Aperitivo Pairings, According to Top Sommeliers
Kir Royale and Potato Chips (Dirler Cadé Crémant d’Alsace)
Bethany Heinze chose a sparkling French wine from the Alsace region for a Kir Royale: Dirler Cadé Crémant d’Alsace. This grippy, acidic, bone-dry sparkler is the ideal stomach opener during aperitivo hour and the perfect base for a sweetener like crème de cassis. “I like a crisper, lighter style to use for cocktails, so Alsace is the perfect place.”
VINEPAIR: 3 of the Best French Wine Regions for Budget Buys
French wine has a reputation for being among the best in the world. Unfortunately, it also has a reputation for being among the priciest as well. If you’re looking to explore the world of French wine without shelling out an arm and a leg to do so, here are three of the best French wine regions that offer great value for the price. Tucked up in the Vosges Mountains on the border of both Germany and Switzerland is Alsace, a region predominantly focused on white wine production.
Robb Report: This Winemaker Will Have You Reaching for Pinot Noir From Alsace
Known for acclaimed Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Gewurztraminer, Alsace has been garnering an increasing amount of attention for its Pinot Noir, which accounts for only about 10 percent of its total production. Besides the fact that it is good in and of itself, one of the reasons Pinot Noir from this region in northeast France is gaining traction is the rising prices of its sibling from Burgundy.
If You Love Pinot Noir, Meet Your New Favorite Wine Region
Bright, juicy, and easy to drink, Alsatian Pinot Noir belongs on your radar.
Alsatian Pinot Noir is finally stepping into the spotlight. The addition of the red wine grape to the Grand Cru vineyard sites Hengst and Kirchberg de Barr in August 2022 has paved a dazzling road for red wine made in the region historically known for its white wines.
Pinot Noir has grown in Alsace since the Middle Ages. It was often simply referred to as red wine until 1539 when the variety was first identified and recorded as “Pinot Noir” by botanist, theologian, and doctor Jérôme (or Hieronymus) Bock.
In the historically war-torn region of Alsace, Pinot Noir was considered table wine, and subsequently overlooked in the original 1975 decree of the Alsace grand cru designation as well as in later revisions, until the designation changed in 2022.
In the past decade, however, Alsatian winemakers have changed their approach to making Pinot Noir, and are finally giving the variety its due attention. Alexandra Gerteis, a sommelier and owner of Etcetera Wine Bar in San Francisco, loves Pinot Noir from Alsace, describing the wines as “beautiful and delicate” while acknowledging they are “very rare and unknown to the public.”
Fortunately, change is in the air. According to Matthew Kaner, Alsace ambassador at the 2024 Alsace Rocks event in New York City, Pinot Noir is quickly becoming a calling card for the region. Lara Michole Tillotson, sommelier at Gabriel Kreuther in New York City, has noticed an increased presence of what she calls ”interesting, diverse, powerful, and luxurious red wines” from Alsace in the U.S. market.
What does Alsatian Pinot Noir taste like?
Created as a pure expression of the fruit, Alsatian Pinot Noir is generally made in a non-oaked style and is the only red variety allowed to be grown in the regional cru, or vineyard classification system, in Alsace.
These wines are medium-bodied and offer fresh red berry flavors of strawberry, raspberry, and cherry. In examples where some oak is used in the winemaking, the wines are well-balanced and offer warm baking spices on the palate alongside red berry flavors.
Many Alsatian Pinot Noir wines reflect a Burgundian style of winemaking, displaying elegance and power, as well as the ability to age for a decade or two. “Alsatian Pinot Noir delivers unbelievable value when compared to average price points of wines from Burgundy or German Pinot Noir,” says Kaner.
Alsatian wines are leaner than wines from typically warmer regions, like California. They also offer more red berry fruit than the dark, cherry flavors often found in Oregon Pinot Noir.
Crémant d’Alsace rosé, or pink sparkling wine from the region made in the traditional style using 100% Pinot Noir grapes, is a light and lively sparkler with soft aromas of strawberry and cherry blossoms that offers round peach, floral, and raspberry notes on the palate.
Alsatian wines are leaner than wines from typically warmer regions, like California. They also offer more red berry fruit than the dark, cherry flavors often found in Oregon Pinot Noir.
Crémant d’Alsace rosé, or pink sparkling wine from the region made in the traditional style using 100% Pinot Noir grapes, is a light and lively sparkler with soft aromas of strawberry and cherry blossoms that offers round peach, floral, and raspberry notes on the palate.
How to pair Alsatian Pinot Noir with food
There are limitless food pairings for Crémant d’Alsace rosé, and the style works well with everything from light goat cheese and honey to spicy vegetable ramen or sweet and smoky barbeque ribs.
Alsace is undeniably rich in culinary tradition with both French and German influences in its cuisine. Pinot Noir produced in the region pairs tremendously well with hearty local dishes such as tarte flambée and pork charcuterie.
Abe Zarate, head sommelier at Contento in New York City, leans into the pork and Pinot Noir pairing. “The concentration of glossy red fruit in Alsatian Pinot Noir plays beautifully with the smokiness of bacon, spiciness of chorizo, and saltiness of cured meats,” he says.
Hewing to the regional food pairings at Gabriel Kreuther, Tillotson pairs Alsatian Pinot Noir with dishes like duck confit and country sausage. She also recommends pairing Alsatian Pinot Noir with “whatever is coming off the grill.” Gerteis agrees with traditional pairings but also loves to match Alsatian Pinot Noir with dishes like smoked salmon salad with arugula, walnut, and lemon.
With more Alsatian Pinot Noir wines hitting the market, it’s becoming easier to find quality bottles. Here are four producers who offer a magnificent way to taste diverse flavors and styles of Alsatian Pinot Noir.
Albert Mann
Born from the union of two families, Albert Mann is one of the most widely known Alsatian producers imported to the United States. Made with grapes from the Hengst grand cru vineyard, Mann’s Grand H Pinot Noir 2020 is highly recommended by both Tillotson and Zarate. This biodynamic wine offers elegance and power with a profile of woodland strawberries, freshly harvested wild mushrooms, and red raspberries.
Allimant Laugner
A family estate that has produced a range of wines in Alsace for eleven generations, Allimant Laugner’s Crémant d’Alsace Rosé comes recommended by Gerteis. This certified organic Pinot Noir sparkler has lively aromas of juicy watermelon on the nose and notes of fresh summer strawberries on the palate.
Cave de Ribeauville
A cooperative formed by 44 Alsatian wine making families in the aftermath of the Franco-Prussian war, Cave de Ribeauville produces many expressions of Pinot Noir. Their organic Pinot Noir is expressive and complex with fresh red cherry aromas, vanilla, and black cherry on the palate and a velvety finish, while a Crémant d’Alsace Rosé is bright, fresh and bubbly with red berry aromas.
Francois Baur
This small, biodynamic estate is known for planting Pinot Noir in the traditionally white wine Grand Cru vineyard, Brand. From this fruit, the producer creates its Sang du Dragon expression (translating to dragon’s blood), a favorite of Tillotson. Tenacious, low-yield vines on steep slopes provide the base of this Pinot Noir, which offers a full spectrum of crimson cherries and red plums, with a strong backbone and soft oak spice.
VINEPAIR: We Asked 17 Sommeliers: What’s the Most Underrated Supermarket Wine?
WORDS: ASHLIE HUGHES
PUBLISHED: MAY 14, 2024
Sometimes the convenience of a one-stop grocery haul for dinner and a bottle of wine can be too hard to pass up. Although they lack the selection and expert guidance of a traditional wine store, if you’re fortunate enough to live in a state where supermarkets carry booze, you can save yourself time (and usually a few dollars) by taking advantage of their selections. However, under the glare of harsh lighting and with the high stakes of a satisfying dinner on the line, it’s easy to crack under the pressure.
Thankfully, as our wine experts below can attest, there are plenty of underrated supermarket wines that won’t let you or your meal down. From a Spanish Rioja and a lively Alsatian blend to a Vinho Verde and several dependable sparkling bottles, you’ll find a handy lineup for the next time you end up wine shopping in a grocery store below.
The most underrated supermarket wines, according to sommeliers::
• Hugel Gentil Alsace Blend
• Lucien Albrecht Crémant d’Alsace Brut Rosé
• Trimbach Riesling
“To me, the most underrated supermarket wine is Hugel Gentil. It’s an Alsatian white blend that seems to be widely available and is oft overlooked. I suspect that’s because of the classic hock-shaped bottle (tall and skinny) combined with the blend of Pinot Gris, Riesling, Muscat, Gewürztraminer, and Sylvaner that convinces people that it’ll be a sweet wine. It’s not! It’s dry. It’s a truly versatile white wine that has big fruit and balanced acidity with pronounced minerality. It’s great with anything spicy or as an aperitif. Fantastic with seafood, pork, or roasted vegetables; salt and fat are its friends.” —Greg Cantu, wine director, Quaintrelle, Portland, Ore.
“I almost always have a bottle of Lucien Albrecht Crémant d’Alsace Brut Rosé in my fridge, just in case I feel the need for some inexpensive bubbles. It’s very affordable and I think it punches well above its weight in terms of quality. If I were truly celebrating something I would probably go find a true Champagne, but just for whimsical bubbles, I like to always keep their Brut Rosé on hand.” —Jon Macklem, wine director, Dry Creek Kitchen, Healdsburg, Calif.
“Among the hidden gems of the supermarket wine selections, the Trimbach Riesling truly stands out as an underrated treasure. Grown in the sun-drenched vineyards of Alsace, France, this exquisite dry Riesling reflects the legacy of the Trimbach family, who have been synonymous with viticultural excellence for generations. What makes this Riesling my go-to choice for everyday enjoyment is that it’s zesty with an intense minerality.” —Molly Austad, sommelier and wine director, Bludorn, Navy Blue, and Bar Bludorn, Houston
FORBES: A World—New And Old—Of Riesling
Lana Bortolot
Mar 13, 2024
I don’t herald too many of these wine varietal days, but when it comes to Riesling, I make an exception. It is one of the world’s noble grapes and the most versatile. “Noble grapes” are so named for their ability to express their location and terroir and among the six (the others are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc), Riesling is, perhaps the most transparent says sommelier Carrie Lyn Strong, owner of Strong Wine Consulting and an East Coast-based ambassador for Wines of Alsace, a quality production region “particularly known for its ability to translate its Grand Cru terroirs,” she says.
Riesling is made in numerous New and Old World regions: Alsace, Australia, Austria, all throughout Germany, New York State’s Finger Lakes, Oregon and Washington State to name a few. It is one of the most food-friendly and age-worthy wines, some capable of cellaring for decades. Though many consumers believe it to be a sweet wine (and Riesling does make delicious sweet dessert wines), for the most part, they are dry table wines—some searingly and excitingly so.
You won’t want to wait decades to drink these, though and if you need an excuse to start your Riesling discovery, here’s a case to consider:
Riesling from the new and old worlds.
PRODUCERS
Domaine Christophe Mittnacht “Terres d’Etoiles, 2020 Grand Cru Rosacker, Alsace. This comes from a pioneering biodynamic winery that makes a more modern style of Riesling, while staying true to its character. This is a nerve-y, clean wine full of mineral and acid tension, which calms down into an elegant and elevated wine with ripe orchard fruits (peach, apple) that lend a bit of softness and plush.
Rieslings from France, Austria, Finger Lakes and Australia - PRODUCERS
Domaine Maurice Schoech 2021, Alsace AOC. A friendly entry-level wine made by a family that dates its roots to the 17th century. Starts off with ripe peach then evolves to candied orange rind and ginger notes. It finishes dry, but since there’s a little more residual sugar on this, it’s a good match with spicy foods.
Famille Hugel “Classic” Riesling 2022, Alsace. The label notes this is a wine of “finesse and frankness,” which is pretty much Alsace’s story as well as the story of this 13th-generation family winery. This is the family’s signature Riesling and a terrific gateway into the variety, delivering youthful citrus notes and orchard fruit flavors of apple, peach and pear.
VINEPAIR: The 30 Best White Wines for 2024
PHOOTOGRAPHY:GABRIELLE JOHNSON
As discussed on a recent episode of the “VinePair Podcast,” white wine is on the rise (in no small part due to Taylor Swift’s love of the beverage). And it appears as if large companies have caught on, with several conglomerates buying up white wine brands in anticipation of this trend continuing in 2024.
We couldn’t be more excited about this shift, as more and more outstanding bottles enter the market. The diversity of varieties and regions producing stellar white wines has simply become too enthralling to ignore. There are classic examples of white grapes thriving in their home soil like Pinot Bianco from Alto Adige, Austrian Grüner Veltliner, and Alsatian Riesling, but also a number of bottles from producers experimenting with obscure grapes on new turf like Xarel-lo from California and Melon de Bourgogne from the North Fork of Long Island.
Among a sea of white wine tasted this past year at VinePair, certain expressions wowed us with their distinct characteristics and charm. The following bottles showcase the depth and versatility that white wine can offer. Here are the 30 best white wines for 2024.
Best White Wines Under $50
Leon Manbach Riesling Grand Cru Frankstein 2019
Alsatian Riesling can sometimes be overshadowed by Germany and, these days, New York. This bottle commands attention and will have you seeking out more from this region in the Vosges mountains. On the nose, you have a honey note wafting up with hints of pepper and sliced pears. The palate is dry, with an intense concentration of fruit and bracing acidity.
Average price: $35
Rating: 93
WINE SEARCHER: A Wine Lover's Go-to Bottle: Alsace Pinot Blanc
If you're looking for a reliable, affordable and versatile food wine, look no further than Pinot Blanc.
W. Blake Gray
Wednesday, 27-Dec-2023
A lot of people don't take Pinot Blanc seriously. It's the Alsatian equivalent of Italian Pinot Grigio, an easy-drinking wine for the general public. People who take it too seriously may be a bigger problem. Critics only love Pinot Blanc when the grapes are affected by botrytis and the wine is thick and sweet: all of the highest-rated Pinot Blancs are like this. In neighboring Germany, they confusingly call the grape Weissburgunder – for years I thought this meant Chardonnay – and they treat it like Chardonnay, with oak barrels and lees stirring, trying to turn it into something it's not.
What Pinot Blanc has going for it in Alsace is that, for some wineries, it's not an afterthought. It fits in nicely with the more-expensive variety Riesling because it thrives in different types of soil. And because Riesling is the top of the portfolio, there's no pressure to add value to Pinot Blanc by tarting it up with oak or botrytis.
It's a good time to jump on the Pinot Blanc train because the variety is well-suited to climate change.
"With the climate change, the last 10 years, the Pinot family benefits from the global warming," said Severine Schlumberger, co-owner of Domaines Schlumberger. "For the people who like Pinot Blanc now, they're going to like it even better in the future."
Let's look at what exactly Pinot Blanc is: a naturally occurring color mutation. Pinot Gris, a more important grape both worldwide and in Alsace, is itself a color mutation of Pinot Noir that was first described in the early 1700s. Pinot Gris is not really gray – "gris" – but instead has pinkish berries. In the late 1800s, French ampelographers discovered an even paler variation of Pinot Gris in two places in Burgundy: this is today's Pinot Blanc. Both Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc have the unusual characteristic of sometimes having different color berries on the same vine. Pinot Blanc is allowed in white Burgundy but almost no winery uses it.
Pinot Gris, which is more aromatic and can be used to make fuller-bodied wines, was embraced in Alsace and worldwide. Here is where I confess that personally, I'm not a fan. Most Americans unknowingly agree with me, which is why Pinot Grigio – overcropped Pinot Gris grapes from northern Italy that make a simple, fresh white wine – is far more popular than "more serious" Pinot Gris versions; i.e., boozy, low-acid wines that don't go well with dinner. Alsatians have traditionally done with Pinot Blanc what Italians do with Pinot Gris/Grigio: overcrop for a lighter wine.
There are two lines in the book "Wine Grapes" – published in 2012, a heavier wine era – about Pinot Blanc in Alsace that speak to me: "(Pinot Blanc) is regarded as workhorse variety and is much less respected than Pinot Gris. Admirers of freshness in wine can find some Pinot Gris overbearing whereas, in the right place and hands, Pinot Blanc can offer a lip-smacking halfway house between refreshment and opulence." Yes, that's it exactly! If you're an "admirer of freshness", Blanc is your Pinot.
"Pinot Blanc is really a great introduction to Alsace wines," said Christian Beyer, 14th-generation proprietor of Domaine Emile Beyer. "It really shows the easiest side of Alsace, this fruit-forward wine with nice balance and nice acidity. I usually say people should have a bottle of Pinot Blanc in the fridge for an emergency."
Time of change
There's an interesting change happening to Pinot Blanc in Alsace now. For decades, some vignerons regarded the grape Auxerrois – a genetic sibling of Chardonnay – to be the same as Pinot Blanc. They are both early-ripening white grapes, so they have often been harvested together and bottled together. But they are very different; Pinot Blanc has good freshness while Auxerrois is low-acid. This has traditionally made them good partners, and legally an Alsatian winery can call a wine "Pinot Blanc" even if it is 100-percent Auxerrois.
But while global warming is making Pinot Blanc grapes fruitier without damaging their freshness, Auxerrois is gradually edging toward irrelevance, and may need to be planted somewhere even cooler than Alsace, one of the coolest regions in France.
"We are trying to encourage our growers to reduce the use of Auxerrois," said Jean-Frederic Hugel, 13th generation proprietor of Famille Hugel. "It tends to produce very powerful wines, very high-alcohol wines, and lower acidity, which is everything we don't need at the moment."
That said, Melanie Pfister made my very favorite wine from the ones I tasted for this story, and she is also the only one who put Auxerrois on the label as she made it in a 50-50 blend with Pinot Blanc. When it works, it works beautifully: a crisp, fresh opening with a touch of weight on the midpalate and a surprisingly long finish.
"To me it was really important to mention that it was a blend," Pfister told Wine-Searcher. "Most of the Pinot Blancs sold in Alsace have some Auxerrois. Auxerrois brings something else. They are really different from each other. They are not brothers."
Pfister is one of the few Alsace vignerons who has old Pinot Blanc vines planted in one of the best spots in her estate. This is unusual because you can't call a Pinot Blanc "Grand Cru" even if it comes from a grand cru vineyard, so those tend to be reserved for Riesling. But her grandfather was a rebel: he even made his Rieslings dry when the fashion was against it.
"Pinot Blanc really has depth and the freshness I like," Pfister said. "We planted more last year. I take it seriously."
That hasn't been the case, but it may change.
"For a long time in Alsace, Pinot Blanc has been seen as the poor little brother of Riesling," Hugel said. "The reaction of the neighbors would be: 'You can afford Riesling. Why are you drinking Pinot Blanc?' Climate change has put Pinot blanc back on the map."
And for Hugel personally, dating outside his region has drastically increased the amount of Pinot Blanc he consumes.
"I rediscovered Pinot Blanc five to six years ago," Hugel told Wine-Searcher. "My partner is originally from Brittany. In the summer we spend a couple of weeks in Brittany every year. We eat oysters for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Pinot Blanc is absolutely my favorite wine to have with oysters. I strongly recommend a bone-dry Pinot Blanc like ours to have with oysters."
Noted! But in the course of this story, I also had Pinot Blanc with spicy Chinese takeout, Korean-style roast pork, Baltimore-style steamed shrimp, and sashimi. It goes well with just about anything, which is why Beyer keeps a bottle in his fridge for emergencies – dinner-pairing emergencies. Here are some Alsace Pinot Blancs that I recommend.
Albert Boxler Alsace Pinot Blanc 2020 A little more complexity than average, with notes of lanolin, white flowers and dry honeycomb adding interest to the fresh citrus fruit.
Emile Beyer Tradition Alsace Pinot Blanc 2020 Lemony and chalky on the nose, with bright, fresh citrus on the palate. It's all about the freshness but there is a roundness to the edges. If you get this by the glass that glass is probably empty faster than you expect.
Famille Hugel Cuvée Les Amours Alsace Pinot Blanc 2020 Lipsmacking up front and gains depth on the finish. It's lemony and a little oily, so not quite as lean and clean as some might prefer. But it will keep your attention.
Jean Rosen Alsace Pinot Blanc 2020 An inviting aroma of ripe pear and peach leads into a taut palate, with a central line of acidity and white peach all around it. White stones on the finish.
Mélanie Pfister Paar Alsace Pinot Blanc and Auxerrois 2021 You can taste the two different varieties in this wine. The Pinot Blanc opens up with crisp lemon peel, and on the midpalate the Auxerrois sweeps in and adds some body throughout the surprisingly long finish. This is refreshing enough for Pinot Blanc's traditional palate-cleansing role, but also interesting enough to sip on its own.
Meyer-Fonné Vieilles Vignes Alsace Pinot Blanc 2022 This is an archetype of modern Pinot Blanc: Fresh and likable, crisp citrus with a hint of stonefruit. Fruit-driven finish.
THE ZOE REPORT: Want A Quick Get Away?
These Stunning European Cities Can Be Seen In A Day
by NICOLE KLIEST
Published: Dec. 11, 2023
For some travelers, the perfect kind of getaway is settling down in one destination and spending several days (or weeks!) immersing deeply into the culture. For others, it’s about squeezing in as many locations and itinerary items as possible. Depending on what you’re looking to get out of your trip, you could argue in favor or against both viewpoints — or somewhere in between the two. And while it’s true: there’s probably nowhere in the world you can fully know by spending just one day in it, the reality of limited vacation days and tight budgets means that sometimes you have to squeeze a whole lot of experience into a shorter timeframe.
Thankfully, Europe is a country where charming day trips hit their stride. Whether it’s for a long weekend or a pitstop while transiting from one big city to the next, there are several European towns that can be experienced and appreciated in 24 hours (albeit, worth a longer stay when possible). These destinations tend to have similar characteristics: efficient public transportation, walkable streets, and old town city centers with plenty of things to do, see, and taste. Ahead, eight such cities to visit to help get the most mileage out of your next European jaunt.
Éguisheim, France
The Alsace region is one of the most beautiful bits of France (think: lush forests, rolling hills, tranquil bodies of water, and world famous vineyards). It boasts several villages that epitomize charm, and one such destination that’s worth adding to your itinerary is Éguisheim (not far from Colmar). One glance at the village’s center and it’s clear that the medieval charm is strong here thanks to its narrow, winding roads and half-timbered houses. Visitors can explore the exterior of Château Saint-Léon, a historic castle, and take in the many colorful floral displays all around town. And no trip to Alsace is complete without a tarte flambée accompanied by a local Riesling.
Where to Stay: James Vignoble Hotel — A quiet, stylish boutique hotel with a standout pool surrounded by vineyards.
VINEPAIR: The 50 Best Wines of 2023
ILLUSTRATION:
ILLUSTRATION: SARA PINSONAULT
As 2023 comes to a close, we have yet another opportunity to reflect on the stellar cast of wines we’ve sampled this year at VinePair HQ. Bottles from around the world — from trusted classics to unexpected delights — pulled our hearts in every direction with their charm and verve.
37. Charles Frey Maceration 2021
This skin-contact blend from Alsace jumps out of the glass with floral aromatics. The palate brings notes of juicy pineapples, lychee, and peaches. Its fun color and approachable, fruit-forward palate make it a great introduction to orange wine, but won’t disappoint regular drinkers of the style.
Average price: $26
Rating: 94
Published: November 15, 2023
For the Perfect Fall Wine, Look to This French Region
Four food-friendly wines from Alsace—and the recipes to pair them with.
PHOTO BY JULIA GARTLAND
By: MARGOT MAZUR | September 18, 2023
With the help of our friends at Wines of Alsace, we’re highlighting four of the region’s most exciting wines—and ideas for how to pair them this fall.
As the weather cools down and the leaves begin to change, my taste in wine shifts from rosés and spritzes to light reds and bright, refreshing whites. I get out my tableware and start planning autumn dinner parties, food pairings, and wines that will bring us together.
This fall, wines from Alsace, France make up the core of my food-friendly lineup that highlights sustainability and responsible agriculture. Located in the northeastern corner of France, next to Germany and above Switzerland, Alsace has an incredibly rich history and an approach to winemaking that blends both tradition and innovation.
Almost one third of Alsace wineries use organic or biodynamic practices, making it a global hotbed for sustainability and minimal intervention wines. Its climate and incredible geologic diversity create an environment conducive to several grape varieties and styles of wine, from zesty, minerally Riesling to the lively bubbles of Crémant d’Alsace.
For fall dinners and gatherings, I always reach for Alsace wines that bring character, flavor, and refreshing brightness to the meal. Here are four wines that are sure to please this autumn—plus the dishes I like to pair them with.
Pinot Gris
Alsace Pinot Gris is rich, complex, and earthy, with slight smoky aromas and notes of citrus and honey. The pinkish-gray grape has been grown in the region since the 16th century and today accounts for over 16 percent of all vineyard plantings in Alsace. Whether made using oak barrels for fullness or in stainless steel tanks for a leaner style, Pinot Gris is a perfect fit for savory dishes with a ton of umami.
Riesling
Grown in the region since the 15th century, Riesling is considered the “king” of Alsace’s grape varieties. Alsace Rieslings are typically dry, with citrus and stone fruit notes, stony minerality, and racing acidity, making them perfect food wines. (High-acid wines are generally very food friendly, as the acidity refreshes the palate and leaves us wanting to take another sip.) Spicy foods pair perfectly with refreshing Riesling, as do richer foods with cream-based sauces. If I find a sweet Riesling, usually labeled Vendanges Tardives (late harvest) or Sélection des Grains Nobles, it’s coming home with me. Sweet wines are not a common choice for pairing with food, but that doesn’t mean folks should turn away from them. They're beautiful on their own or as an accompaniment to dessert or cheese, and they make dinner that much more special.
Pinot Noir
Pinot Noir is Alsace’s hidden gem and red grape of choice. (It’s the only red grape permitted to be grown in the region.) The wine comes in a range of styles from deep and earthy to fruity and light, making it an easy and versatile pick for pairing with beef, chicken, duck, or even game meats like venison.
Crémant D'Alsace
Did you know Alsace has its own sparkler? One of my all-time favorite sparkling wines, Crémant d’Alsace is made using the traditional method, the same way as Champagne, with a second fermentation period that takes place in the bottle itself. The wines are crisp, dry, fruity, elegant, and have a beautiful mousse of bubbles, which easily cuts through salty or fatty foods. Crémant d’Alsace pairs with just about anything, from snacks like popcorn and cheese plates to mains like grilled fish and lemony pastas.
THE GAZETTE: Wine Guy: Alsace Riesling is a sleeper region for a sleeper wine
By Rich Mauro Special to The Gazette Feb 1, 2023
Riesling is an enigma. The grape can make some of the planet’s greatest white wines. But it also may be the most underappreciated white wine. It’s subject to misperceptions, such as “all riesling is sweet” and “it’s only grown in Germany.” Contrary to those misperceptions, Alsace riesling is mostly dry. And it can reach equally majestic heights as German riesling.
Located in northeastern France between the Rhine River and the Vosges mountains, on the borders of Germany and Switzerland, Alsace has a history of invaders occupying it as a strategic geopolitical position. In addition to Strasbourg and Colmar, much of its charm is in the many small villages that have been preserved throughout that history.
Farming of grapes began with the Romans in the second century. Over the next 1800 years, its wine suffered many inconsistencies, largely a result of war, occupation and overproduction. After the first world war, a tentative renewal began; efforts to improve quality advanced further after the second world war and really took hold in the 1970s. Today, many would say Alsace is one of the highest quality and most beautiful wine regions of France.
The cool, dry climate and diversity of terroirs, especially on hillsides, is ideal for riesling, which made its way from Germany at the end of the 15th century. But it was only in the 1960s that it reached the top position of production in Alsace, where 90% is white wine.
Typically, riesling d’Alsace (usually a blend of selected vineyards, unless otherwise noted) is enticingly aromatic, fresh, elegant and most often dry. Expect citrus, peach, apricot, apple, pear, occasionally a touch of spice and especially with Grands Crus (highest classified vineyards) and lieux-dits (other single vineyard wines) mineral elements. The wines, especially the Grands Crus and lieux-dits, age well. They are fine food wines, especially fish, shellfish, poultry, richly sauced, oysters, caviar and cheese. Recommended wines include:
• 2017 Mélanie Pfister "Engleberg" Grand Cru ($48), small estate established in 1780; farmed organically; full, intense, searing lemon, structured elegance, luscious, stony, earthy.
• 2017 Domaines Schlumberger “Saering” Grand Cru ($36), founded in 1810 on vineyards originally planted by the Romans; 100% estate- bottled; mouthwatering, youthful mixed citrus fruits, apple, focused, stony, spice.
• 2020 Meyer-Fonné Reserve ($28), family owned since founding in late 19th century; includes fruit from Grand Cru and other single vineyards; juicy, concentrated, orange, elegant, stone, anise.
• 2019 Kuentz-Bas ($22), over 225 years old; biodynamic, sustainably farmed, minimal-intervention cellar practices; very dry, intense, energetic, green apple, apricot, anise
• 2019 Christophe Mittnacht “Terres d’Etoiles” ($29), family-run estate founded in 1958; certified biodynamic in 1999; delicate, fresh and floral,
• 2019 Cave de Ribeauvillé ($17,) founded in 1895; oldest wine co-operative in France, currently with 110 members; fresh apple, pear, citrus, flint.
WINE ENTHUSIAST: ‘Organic Was Too Easy’: Why Alsace Is Leading the Biodynamic Charge
BY: LAYLA SCHLACK
In Alsace, France, where vineyard land is often passed down for generations, a sense of stewardship is palpable. This comes through in practices like handpicking the steep slopes and organic farming. It’s also apparent in the notably high number of wineries that use biodynamic practices in the vineyard, cellar or both.
The region accounts for 12.8% of France’s certified biodynamic vineyard area, even though Alsace represents less than 5% of the country’s vineyard acreage, at roughly 39,000 acres. Among its wineries, 88 have Demeter certification, one of the few biodynamic accreditations recognized globally. And as of 2021, 21 wineries are certified by Biodyvin, given only to biodynamic farms or those that commit to convert.
So how did biodynamics gain such a foothold in the region?
PHOTO BY LAYLA SCHLACK
In 1924, as Rudolf Steiner was developing the system of biodynamic farming in Austria, Alsace was replanting and recovering from 50 years of German occupation, as well as phylloxera. It would take the region another half-century or so to get Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) status and begin to implement Grand Cru designations for some of its vineyards.
In other words, biodynamics was not at the forefront of most winemakers’ minds when Steiner was out spreading the word.
Marie Zusslin, of Domaine Valentin Zusslin, represents the 13th generation to run her family’s winery. She says that her father converted to biodynamics in 1997, three years before he handed the reins to Zusslin and her brother. After her father attended a workshop in 1996, he immediately planned to convert all the plots at once.
“Organic was too easy,” she says, which echoes a sentiment from Séverine Schlumberger, co-owner of Domaines Schlumberger, that difficulty makes things better.
Maxime Barmès, of Domaines Barmès-Buecher, whose family has owned its vineyards since the 1600s, says his father also converted to biodynamics following a masterclass in the mid-1990s.
Neither Zusslin nor Barmès remembers who led the classes or where they were held.
In his book Riesling Rediscovered: Bold, Bright, and Dry (University of California Press, 2016), author John Winthrop Haeger writes, “In 1997, Jean-Pierre Dirler and Jean Dirler took a course on biodynamic viticulture offered by the Centre de Formation Professionnelle et de Promotion Agricole (CFPPA).” Domaine Dirler-Cadé converted to biodynamics the following year and received its Demeter certification in 2001.
This particular CFPPA is in the Alsace town of Rouffach. These centers for adult education exist throughout the country, including one in Beaune and another in Gironde. It’s unclear who taught the Alsace classes or why they proved so popular. But with Steiner’s Goetheanum, the world center of biodynamics, little more than 30 miles from Rouffach, it’s not hard to imagine that people were curious.
By the 1990s, there was some precedent for biodynamics in Alsace. Domaine Eugène Meyer converted in 1969 and got its Demeter certification in 1980. Meyer’s shift came after he suffered optic nerve paralysis after the use of conventional spray in the vineyards. A homeopath recommended that he try biodynamic farming instead.
He was followed closely by Domaine Pierre Frick. Jean-Pierre Frick, the 12th generation of his family to run the winery, took over in 1970. He converted the winery to biodynamic farming in 1980, and it became Demeter certified in 1981.
While the exact reasons why winemakers took these classes might not be known, what’s clear is that something during the 1990s moved several producers to convert to biodynamics. Domaine Mittnacht Frères converted in 1999, and it received its Demeter certification in 2013. Domaine Ostertag became certified in 2004. Jean-Baptiste Adam began to convert in the late 1990s.
Countless others may adopt some or all biodynamic practices without pursuing certification. Mélanie Pfister, of Domaine Mélanie Pfister, falls into this camp. Certification is expensive, she says, and while she may do it eventually, it’s not a priority at the moment.
Many say that when the grapes need to be picked, they need to be picked, even if the specific day isn’t ideal within the biodynamic calendar. Others skip the step of burying a cow’s horn filled with manure, but adhere quite closely to most other biodynamic guidance.
Vineyards here are often small and share hillsides with each other. It’s possible that peer pressure may also be a factor. Arthur Ostertag, of Domaine Ostertag, practices organic and biodynamic farming. He says it’s a concern when nearby vineyards spray conventional treatments, but he doesn’t make a fuss about it.
In large part, however, the move to biodynamics seems an extension of producers’ pride in their pristine terroir and a desire to maintain it as long as they can in the face of the climate crisis.
Cover crops in between rows, for example, feed soil biome and offer some protection against erosion. It also offers botanical nuance to the wines. The ethos here is to care for the land and let it speak through the wines. Biodynamics is just one tool to achieve that.
Published on September 5, 2022
ROBB REPORT: White Wines Age Beautifully Too. Here Are 3 to Lay Down Now.
Ranging from riesling to a premier-cru, the flavorful options can be aged for an additional 10-20 years.
By MIKE DESIMONE, JEFF JENSSEN
Many serious wine and collectors focus their attention solely on reds, which is a shame. Not only are there many white styles that deserve praise equal to that currently lavished on first-growth Bordeaux, riserva Barolo and Napa Valley Cabernet, but, like its deeper-hued counterpart, white wine has been coveted for millennia, with residue of the liquid detected inside amphorae stashed within the tombs of Egyptian pharaohs—proof positive of the esteem bestowed upon the paler fruit of the vine.
And it’s not just an easy-drinking libation for a hot summer day; when stored properly, the finest whites age beautifully. Indeed, many collectors who claim to enjoy only reds will, when pressed, cop to having laid down a few bottles of white Burgundy or Grand Cru Alsace Riesling. But, more than an afterthought, the best white wines warrant a place of pride in your cellar.
“If there is one big misconception about white wine, it’s that it must be consumed young,” says Joe Czerwinski, editor in chief of Robert Parker Wine Advocate. “Like fine reds, the best dry white wines can improve for years, sometimes even decades, morphing from something direct and fruity into a beverage with additional richness and complexity.” Minimal air exchange under cork closure brings on desirable flavors—dried apricot, toasted almond, nutmeg—that complement the bright citrus and orchard-fruit notes of a well-crafted white wine.
Czerwinski advises casting a wide net: Whites from Burgundy, Bordeaux, Alsace and the Loire and Rhône valleys can all be superlative, he says, as can those from Rioja, in Spain, and Austrian and German Rieslings.
Thanks to the oak-derived tannins in the wine, barrel-fermented or -aged whites—such as Burgundies from Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet and Corton-Charlemagne—will develop well over the course of many years, as will steel-fermented Riesling thanks to its naturally high acidity. Wines with both elevated acidity and residual sugar, including Sauternes, Tokaji and some German Rieslings, will not just survive but thrive when stored properly, while Premier Cru and Grand Cru Chablis can be matured for up to a decade. And while some bottles can go even longer, for the most part, prepare to allow your whites to evolve for between seven and 15 years—enough time to test your patience but, compared to the longest-aging reds, all that much sooner to enjoy.
To Lay Down
Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2019 Riesling Rangen De Thann Clos Saint Urbain
From a walled single vineyard within Alsace’s most southerly grand-cru appellation, this bone-dry Riesling is brimming with vivid acidity. It offers complex peach and apricot flavors and strong minerality and salinity that will only improve after 20 years.
FOOD&WINE: Pinot Blanc — A Guide to the Basics
Pinot Blanc arguably reaches its most well-known heights in the Alsace region of France, but is important in Italy, Austria, Oregon, and beyond, too.
By Brian Freedman
Depending on where Pinot Blanc is grown, it can be crafted into straightforward, uncomplicated wines or into bottles with the ability to age. Some examples are exuberantly fruit-forward whereas others benefit from time in the cellar, waiting to take on more savory notes as the years tick by. From the renowned vineyards of Alsace and the mountain flanks in Italy to picture-postcard hillsides in Oregon, Pinot Blanc is a grape variety that has the ability to run the gamut of style, price, and age-worthiness.
What is Pinot Blanc Wine?
Pinot Blanc wine is produced from the grape variety of the same name. The grape is referred to as Pinot Bianco in Italy, where it thrives in the northeast of the country. In Austria, where the variety excels as well, it is referred to as Weissburgunder. In Canada, where it's typically called Pinot Blanc, it has the potential for producing fantastic dry white wines, and some sweet ones, too. No matter what it's called, Pinot Blanc / Pinot Bianco / Weissburgunder has the capability to produce delicious, food-friendly, and occasionally age-worthy wines.
Where Does Pinot Blanc Wine Come From?
Much like its cousins in the Pinot family, Pinot Blanc is the result of a genetic mutation that caused it to form its own characteristics. So while Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris or Grigio, Pinot Meunier, and Pinot Blanc are all related, they are unique varieties unto themselves.
The name can give you some indication of where it's from when grown in Europe (Blanc for France and Bianco for Italy), but in the so-called New World, those linguistic mile-markers mean a lot less. In general, the French version, Pinot Blanc, is how this wine is usually referred to outside of Europe, but that's not a steadfast rule. (You'll rarely see Weissburgunder used outside of Austria and Germany, interestingly enough.)
Why Should You Drink Pinot Blanc Wine?
Pinot Blanc wine is produced in a range of styles, and in many countries around the world. As a result, there is likely to be a Pinot Blanc that appeals to you, no matter what your personal white wine preferences may be. Unless, that is, you gravitate exclusively toward oak-driven, creamy-as-a-Guinness Chardonnays, in which case this may not be the grape variety for you. Pinot Blanc has a wide range: it can be found in crisp expressions or slightly creamier ones, as well as fruit-forward or more terroir-driven styles. These wines can be still or sparkling, and dry or sweet.
Unsurprisingly, this range makes Pinot Blanc very versatile at the table. Its bright acidity allows it to cut through creamy or buttery sauces, and its hints of herbs make it a home run with dishes that have the same. Bring those traits together and you have a recipe for pairing greatness — for example, many pasta dishes as well as a classic lobster with melted butter and flecks of parsley or tarragon will sing with Pinot Blanc.
What Does Pinot Blanc Taste Like?
Pinot Blanc generally exhibits aromas and flavors of stone fruit (peach, nectarine, apricot) as well as suggestions of autumn orchard fruit — it's not uncommon to find notes of pears and apples in a well-crafted Pinot Blanc, as well as citrus characteristics like lemon. Light floral aromatics are not uncommon, though they rarely dominate any particular wine, and mouthwatering (but not typically tart) acidity tends to keep the wines full of energy. With age, Pinot Blanc often picks up nutty notes as well.
Pinot Blanc is best enjoyed from either a universal wine glass or a standard white wine glass. A Cabernet Sauvignon glass will also work, just be careful not to overfill it, as the Pinot Blanc may warm too much before you finish.
Five Great Pinot Blanc Wines
Domaine Christophe Mittnacht
The biodynamic "Terres d'étoiles" Pinot Blanc 2020 is remarkable, balancing hard apricots and Seckle pears with tarragon, lime blossoms, and subtle spice. There is also a good percentage of Pinot Auxerrois in this textural, energetic wine.
TASTING TABLE: The Beginner's Guide To Alsatian Wine
BY SAMANTHA MAXWELL
Champagne, Bordeaux, and Burgundy may get all the love when it comes to French wine regions, but if there's one exciting region that shouldn't be missed, it's Alsace — especially if you're a true white wine lover. Alsace's location on the map is a huge part of what makes it so special. It's right on the border with Germany, and throughout the years, it's been passed back and forth between the countries as a result of war, strife, and political conflict, according to the British Council. The influence of both countries has made its mark on the region, making it a desirable destination for both wine and history lovers.
But just what's so special about Alsatian wine? The cool climate produces aromatic, refreshing wines that are often less expensive than many of their other French counterparts, according to Nader Asgari-Tari, wine director at Boston's Bin 26 Enoteca. Many of the winemakers in this region are dedicated to sustainable farming practices, employing both traditional methods and cutting-edge technology to ensure the future success of their vineyards for generations to come. It makes sense — some of the estates in Alsace have been producing wine for over 10 generations, per France24, so it's a region that's had plenty of practice with adaption and sustainability.
Pour yourself a glass, and let's take a deeper dive into the basics of Alsatian wine.
The Vosges Mountains play an important role in producing the region's wine
There are two main geographic factors that make Alsatian wine what it is: the Vosges Mountains and the Rhine River (via Grape Collective). The mountains work by preventing rain and clouds from making their way to the region, which makes Alsace one of France's both driest and sunniest regions. Many of the best vineyards face south, allowing the slopes access to that warm sun throughout the summer months. This sunlight helps ripen the grapes.
The clay soils near the Rhine River produce richer, more full-bodied wines and are perfect for grapes like Pinot Noir and Gewürztraminer, per Wine Folly. However, grapes produced on the rocky, granitic slopes will result in more mineral-forward wines — riesling is big here. Because this area boasts such a wide array of soil types, Alsatian wines have incredible range. While some of the flatter areas of the region can be mechanically harvested, some of the best wines come from steep slopes — these grapes have to be harvested by hand. This is a time-intensive and costly process, but it's worth it for winemakers who are dedicated to producing top-quality wine.
Alsatian wines are known for their quality ... and affordable price point
There is affordable wine everywhere, but a lot of it can feel uninspired or uninteresting. But if we're talking the good-quality stuff, it is often prohibitively expensive, especially when it comes from France's most famed wine regions: Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Champagne chief among them. Drinkers who are looking for delicious, high-quality wines on a budget may find more success with premium Alsatian wines. The region is known for its fantastic-but-affordable selections, often at a significantly lower price than what you'd expect from other regions. Nader Asgari-Tari tells Tasting Table that it's possible to find great Alsatian wines at a comparatively lower price point "because volume of production is higher and because of how large the area of available land that is deemed of a good to high quality is substantially higher [than other regions]."
According to sommelier Eric Hastings, "The grand cru wines of Alsace offer a tremendous quality/price ratio" (via Forbes). Price isn't always correlated with quality, so for those looking for quality wines without a shock-inducing price tag, Alsace offers plenty to love.
The majority of Alsatian wines are white wines
There are exceptions to the rule, but Alsace is mostly known for its aromatic white wines, according to VinePair. Some of these grapes include riesling, gewürztraminer, pinot gris, pinot blanc, muscat, and sylvaner. Many of these wines are famed for their minerality and freshness aided by Alsace's notoriously cool climate. They're often fruit-forward as well, but don't assume that means they're all sweet. Gewürztraminer is known for its tropical fruit flavors and can be dry or off-dry, while the somewhat less-popular sylvaner can offer an impressive display of both honey notes and intense acidity.
There's a good chance you've already explored plenty of rieslings and pinot gris if you're already someone who loves white wines. But if you want to get a taste of Alsace while experiencing something unique, try some of the other grapes. Alsace is unusual for a French wine region in that it lists the grape varietal on the label, per Wine-Searcher, so it's not difficult to see what you're getting.
The region also produces excellent pinot noir
Although Alsace is famed for its white wines, red wine lovers will find something to love too. Pinot noir is also grown in Alsace, and while this grape doesn't grow in intensely hot or sunny climates, it does need more sun than most white varietals. In the past, Pinot Noir didn't always ripen in Alsace, but with climate change increasing average temps, Pinot Noir is now coming into its own in the region. Per the Edmonton Journal, hotter weather in the region is helping to ripen these grapes, and now, Alsatian winemakers are developing top-notch pinot noir.
In fact, prior to the spring of 2022, the Grand Cru appellation, which designates what are considered the highest-quality vineyards of the region, only allowed the production of white grapes. However, as of 2022, pinot noir can now be classified as a Grand Cru grape in Alsace (via Wine, Wit, and Wisdom).
"It could be sinewy, velvety, sometimes powdery, depending on if it's grown on granitic soil versus limestone versus a site with higher proportions of iron content, producing a bloody sanguine flavor profile. It has a certain structure and a textural composition on the palate," said Nader Asgari-Tari of Alsatian pinot Noir. "Sometimes, they're light and quaffable, and other times, they can be more amplified and more serious ... It's a very unique style of pinot noir that, within the category, has a lot of diversity."
Alsatian rieslings are dry wines
Some of us have a sweet tooth, but there's no denying that sweet wine has become less popular in the last several years. Ask many beginner wine drinkers which grape they tend to avoid because of its sweetness, and they'll tell you riesling. It's true that some rieslings can have high levels of residual sugar — their sugary-syrupy sweetness making you feel like you can skip dessert entirely. But it's incorrect to assume that all rieslings on the market are sweet. In fact, according to Nader Asgari-Tari, Alsatian rieslings are specifically not sweet — they can't contain more than four grams of residual sugar per liter (which is quite low). This results in the dry, acidic, and refreshing Rieslings Alsace is known for.
"Generally, when we talk about wine, we talk about fashion, and you know, fashion changes," Asgari-Tari said. "Depending on what history or what timeline or what era we're talking about, there were points when the wine was probably sweeter, and maybe there were points when they were drier. Today's Alsatian Riesling is a drier Riesling. Part of that is new laws that have been put in place to limit the residual sugar levels ... creating a standard." For those who love high-acid white wines but are hesitant to indulge in a lusciously sweet bottle, Alsatian riesling offers a reliable, delicious, and refreshing alternative.
The region is also known for its sweeter late harvest wines
Although Alsace may be famed for its dry rieslings, it's also possible to find a range of sweet wines in the region. "Vendange tardive is a late-harvest wine," according to Nader Asgari-Tari — it literally translates to "late harvest" in French. Instead of picking grapes at the peak of ripeness, winemakers attempting to produce a vendange tardive will allow the fruit to sit on the vine for longer until it starts to dry. This allows both sugar and flavor to concentrate in the grapes, resulting in a sweeter and often intensely flavorful wine. Vendanges tardives can be made with several different types of grape, including riesling and gewürztraminer.
Wondering what they taste like? "Generally, vendanges tardives are richer, more golden in hue, viscous, and more evolved," said Asgari-Tari. "Think bruised fruit, poached pear. Depending on the residual sugar, where the RS is at, that sugar acts as a wax seal and adds weight, mass, and definition to that wine. There's all this ornamental spice character ... it's a richer, sweeter for sure, style of wine that has the durability and capacity for extended long-term aging."
Even if you're not generally a fan of sweet wines, some of Alsace's top vendanges tardives are deeply interesting and worth a try.
Alsatian wines used to be sweeter
Whether you prefer drier or sweeter wines (or you're open to trying both), you're not going to be disappointed with your options when it comes to Alsatian wine. But in the past, you would've been much more likely to wander upon sweet wines from Alsace. This change in trends is largely related to Alsace's place in the world and the sociopolitical consequences of the 20th century. Many Alsatian wines were sweet before the beginning of World War II, according to the Grape Collective. These wines were similar in style to many German wines made from the same or similar grapes.
However, during this period, some Alsatian winemakers decided that they wanted their wines to be distinct from German wines, and therefore, the shift to drier wines began. Since then, the majority of Alsatian wine has been on the drier side. These dry wines tend to be more gastronomic, or food-friendly, and generally boast high acid.
Sparkling wine can be made using several different methods, the most famous of which may be the méthode traditionnelle, also known as the "traditional method" or "champagne method." But for many, Champagne just isn't reasonable to drink on a regular basis — it can range from slightly pricey to prohibitively expensive. That's why some wine consumers who love sparklers turn to alternatives, like crémant d'Alsace. There are similarities between the two French bubbly wines in that they're made in the same way, but a wider variety of grapes can be used to make Alsatian crémant than can be used for Champagne. As a result, Crémants are generally less expensive than Champagne.
"The wines are different because the sites are different, and they're a reflection of the place," Asgari-Tari told us. "But they're also a reflection of how that culture interacts with that wine and how it's used. For me, I think crémant is a much more convivial, fun wine. It's a chill vibe. Delicious, gastronomic, yes, and you can still have very serious crémant, but in general, it feels more approachable than champagne. Crémant is much more accessible and far more democratic in terms of being able to reach more tables."
Alsatian wine producers must use 100% of the grape listed on the label
For many American shoppers delving into the French wine world for the first time, French wine labels are exceedingly confusing. In most parts of France, a wine is named after the region, not the grape that's used to make it. If you don't know much about these regions, it can be tricky to know what you're buying. However, things are done a bit differently in Alsace. According to Dummies, Alsatian wines are named after varietals, not regions, which makes selecting a bottle slightly easier.
Although American wines are labeled in a similar way, the rules for labeling Alsatian wines differ from those found in the U.S. as well. Apart from Oregon, American wines can be labeled as a certain varietal if they contain 75% of that grape or more. So, yes, you could be buying a cabernet sauvignon that's actually only 80% cabernet sauvignon mixed with another grape.
But in Alsace, that won't fly. Per Wine Folly, winemakers must use only the grape listed on the label. This allows you to get a stronger feel of the different varietals of the region when you're picking out a bottle.
Alsace is a hub for organic and biodynamic wines
Agricultural workers in the wine world and beyond are now contending with increasing challenges in the face of climate change. Winemakers across the world are searching for ways to keep their vineyard viable for longer, produce high-quality wines despite the climate crisis, and ensure their land is kept in pristine shape for the next generation — and many see biodynamics as a smart way to do just that. According to Grow Ensemble, biodynamic wine is produced with a kind of farming that focuses on sustainability and minimal intervention in the vineyard. Biodynamics are complicated, but imagine it as organic farming on steroids.
Per BK Wine Magazine, Alsace is actually Europe's top biodynamic wine region, so it's largely leading the charge on sustainable wine production on the continent. As of 2019, 4.5% of winemakers in Alsace were using certified biodynamic farming methods (with others practicing many of the tenants of biodynamics without certification), while 25% of the vineyards in the region were organic. As climate change continues to affect vineyards around the world, more regions would do well to take a closer look at what Alsace is doing and mimic the same practices in their own vineyards.
Alsatian wines pair beautifully with Alsatian cuisine
Nobody's going to judge you if you decide to go off the rails with your wine pairings — enjoy whatever dish you're craving with your favorite Alsatian wine. But there's no denying that Alsatian wine complements Alsatian food beautifully. Per Always Ravenous, one of Alsace's best combos involves a pizza-like dish called flammkuchen, also known as tarte flambée and crémant or a young, fresh riesling. The richness of the myriad cheeses, including crème fraice, on the flatbread are complemented by refreshing bubbles and a zing of acidity.
Choucroute garnie, a dish featuring a variety of salted meats and sausages paired with sauerkraut, also works well with a wide variety of Alsatian whites like Sylvaner and Riesling. Looking for something to pair with your favorite Pinot Noir from Alsace? Wine & Food Matcher notes that Alsatian roasted goose might be the way to go.
The Route des Vins d'Alsace is France's oldest wine route
Alsatian wine is delicious regardless of where you drink it, but if you want to experience it at its finest, you have to make your way to Alsace itself. Luckily, the Route des Vins d'Alsace, or Alsatian Wine Route, is one of the most beautiful in the world. It's also France's oldest wine route, according to the Route des Vins d'Alsace's website.
Notable stops on the route include Domaines Schlumberger, the cooperative Cave de Ribeauvillé, and Domaine Weinbach-Faller, among many others. To visit some of these locations, you'll have to arrange an appointment, but it's worth the planning ahead of time — you'll get to taste some of your favorite wines straight from the source. Remember to bring a large-enough suitcase with you because you're definitely going to want to take some bottles home.
If you're looking to explore a slice of French wine country that's a little further off the beaten track, Alsace may just be your best bet. In addition to the beautiful wines, enjoy jaw-dropping views of the Vosges Mountains and picturesque towns dotted with wineries and Michelin-starred restaurants. Whether you stay in quaint Colmar or the slightly busier Strasbourg, you'll find that this little corner of France has plenty to offer wine enthusiasts and casual tourists alike.
Change On Their Terms: How Alsatian Winemakers Are Shaking Things Up
Vineyard in Alsace | Photo Credit: Katie Melchior
“I”m trying to reform the Schlossberg,” says winemaker Eddy Faller of Domaine Weinbach, referring to the Grand Cru vineyard in Alsace. “Fewer grape varieties, all organic. For me, that would be the dream.”
In addition to continuing his family’s legacy at Domaine Weinbach, Faller is the president of the Grand Cru Schlossberg Association, just outside of Colmar, in the Alsace region of eastern France. It’s a grand cru home to a few dozen producers and a couple of smaller vignerons who work for a cooperative. Not everyone in the area is organic, nor is everyone as enthusiastic as Faller about growing Riesling, Schlossberg’s signature grape. But for the fourth-generation winemaker, these two changes are key. And he’s not the only producer who has reform at the top of his mind.
In France, Alsace is a leader in the natural, organic, and biodynamic wine movement. Like the Loire Valley and parts of the Beaujolais, winemakers in Alsace are unafraid to push boundaries, experiment, and trade notes on experiences. Still, the weight of tradition is immense, and change is often easier said than done.
In Alsace, rules take on new specificities: it’s the only French region where varietal labeling is not only permitted but necessary to be a part of the appellation system (with few exceptions). It’s also the only one where a monovarietal wine’s contents must be 100% that variety. In Burgundy, by contrast, only 85% of Pinot Noir is required to make Gevrey-Chambertin. That also holds true in the U.S., where varietal labeling is just as important as in Alsace, but where a wine doesn’t have to be 100% monovariety to be labeled as such. Whatever the reason for this—perhaps the Germanic influence, or the austereness imposed by the Vosges Mountains— many producers are now ready to test and change. They’re hopeful that now outdated regulations may evolve, just as their wines do.
“Of course, we’ve made orange wines in the past,” says Céline Josmeyer, one half of the sister duo behind Domaine Josmeyer. “We’ve even sent our grapes to our friends in the Loire for them to vinify as they like. You have to experiment.”
Beyond grand crus and natural wines, even more winemakers want to grow grapes that aren’t currently permitted by the appellation to see if it’s possible to apply their winemaking savoir-faire to nontraditional varieties. “I love Beaujolais,” says Julien Trimbach, the 13th-generation winemaker at Maison Trimbach. “So, we’ve found a little plot where we’ll be planting some Gamay.” Others are even trying Syrah and Merlot, too.
Change is also underfoot in the broader region: there will soon be a vote deciding whether irrigation will be permitted in the region due to droughts caused by climate change. Where some regions struggle with too much rainfall, Alsace has the opposite problem: it is France’s driest region. If the vote on irrigation passes, Alsace would be one of the first French regions to allow irrigation within the appellation system. Dry farming, working with the land, and relying on what nature gives is paramount to France’s elegant and complex winemaking style. It’s no surprise, then, that many winemakers are against it.
“[Irrigation is] how you make a lot of high volume, low-quality wine,” says Jean-Frédéric Hugel of Famille Hugel, one of the largest producers in the region.
He’s not the only one that thinks so. Olivier Humbrecht, of Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, is perhaps the most outspoken critic of irrigation: “Adaptation to a changing world is good,” he says. “But wine is a luxury product. If I can’t make wine based on what nature gives me, I’m not about to take water away from a product essential for human survival, like wheat. It’s just not right.”
The vote on irrigation happens this week, and the reason for the timing? A predictably hot, dry summer is right around the corner.
While not all producers in Alsace believe in the same things, they all generally agree that it’s time for change—as long as said change is in line with their values surrounding sustainability and experimentation. And while this writer loves a good bottle of Riesling, she hopes to open some Alsatian Gamay in a few years’ time, too.
Author’s Note: Since publishing this article, the vote on irrigation passed in Alsace, which means it is now possible to make wines in the AOC system while using irrigation on vines.
A New Sweetness Scale Is Required On Alsace Wine Labels
VOEGTLINSHOFFEN, FRANCE - OCTOBER 11: Wine labels are seen during a visit to Maison Joseph Cattin winery on October 11, 2019 in the village of Voegtlinshoffen in the Alsace region of eastern France. The Cattin family have been winemakers since 1720, are one of the biggest family-owned wineries in Alsace and are a popular tourist destination with its modern visitors' center and wide range of affordable wines. The Alsace Wine Route, which was officially established in 1953, passes through 70 wine-growing villages as it winds along the foothills of the Vosges mountain range for more than 170km where wine enthusiasts can visit more than 1,000 of the popular region's wineries. (Photo by David Silverman/Getty Images)
Starting with wines from the 2021 harvest, a standardized sweetness guide will be required on all Alsace wine labels. The change is not in production, but in communication, so that consumers can better understand the product by looking at the packaging.
While most French wines are labeled by origin, wines from Alsace are indicated by grape variety plus location information, including if the wine is from one of the 51 grand cru localities. Now wine buyers and members of the trade can also consult the bottle for a visual sweetness scale or one of the following appropriate terms.
How to Read the New Alsace Wine Sweetness Scale
The new scale is quite simple. Look for the following terms, in English and French (in parentheses).
Dry (sec): sugar content of the wine does not exceed 4 g/l
Medium-Dry (demi-sec): sugar content of the wine is between 4 g/l and 12 g/l
Mellow (moelleux): sugar content of the wine is between 12 g/l and 45 g/l
Sweet (doux): sugar content of the wine exceeds 45 g/l
Alsace Wine Sweetness Scale will be a feature on wine labels beginning with the 2021 vintage.
Alsace Outdoors: Four Winemakers Share their Favorite Places to Ski, Hike and Mor
GETTY
With the Rhine River on one side, Vosges Mountain range on the other and about 10,000 miles of marked trails in between, Alsace beckons you to go out and explore. Many winemakers here feel a keen sense of connection with nature, evidenced through organic or biodynamic farming, as well as their love of outdoor adventure. Here, a few share their favorite spots to hike, bike, and ski.
MARIE ZUSSLIN OF DOMAINE VALENTIN ZUSSLIN HIKING IN ALSACE. / PHOTO COURTESY OF MARIE ZUSSLIN
Lunch and a Hike
Marie Zusslin is part of the 13th generation to run Domaine Valentin Zusslin, so you could say she knows the area.
“One of my best spots is around the lakes: Green Lake and White Lake, very close to Munster city,” she says. “Park at Auberge du Schantzwasen, take your hiking bag and walk five hours for a wonderful view—you can see the Mont Blanc summit sometimes.”
Don’t worry if five hours sounds like a long hike.
“After three hours, take a break in a traditional inn and have a lunch: soup, tourte (meat pie), roïgabrageldi et collet fumé (roasted potatoes and ham) with a nice Alsace Pinot Noir bottle,” says Zusslin. “Then to digest, you have to walk on the summit and smell this nice odor of the specific flora and hear the nice sound of the cow bells.”
Close to Home
At Trimbach, Pierre Trimbach and his brother handle the day-to-day business, which means that far flung exploration can be a challenge. Fortunately, he finds plenty to enjoy right where he is.
“I love walking in the vineyards in the fall, when colors are changing from bright green to yellow and orange,” he says. “When the weather is great, we can see the Black Forest in Germany and the Swiss Alps from the Clos Ste. Hune, our famed vineyards.
“In winter, I love skiing. I have toured the world for skiing, but recently have focused on teaching my favorite sport to my granddaughters Jeanne, six, and Emma, three, as I taught my daughters. Lac Blanc, Bagenelles, there are many beautiful places with magical views.”
JEAN CLAUDE RIEFLÉ OF DOMAINE RIEFLÉ CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING IN LAC BLANC ALSACE. / PHOTO COURTESY OF JEAN CLAUDE RIEFLÉ
In Vosges
Jean-Claude Rieflé, owner and winemaker of Domaine Rieflé, and his son Paul, in charge of sales, are both members of the French Alpine Club. They hike often in the Swiss Alps, but the local Vosges mountain ridge also offers beautiful spots to practice their preferred mountaineer sport: cross-country ski-touring.
A 30-minute drive from the winery drops them at the foot of the Grand Ballon, the highest summit of the Vosges. They call it “their local Kilimanjaro.” Climbing upward through magical winter forest scenery is a unique experience rewarded by nice downhill runs. And what about winter camping with friends, enjoying a cheese fondue with Alsace wine around the fire?
The Vosges mountains are really a four-season playground for everyone, the pair says. During summer, hiking and mountain biking are the most popular activities. The long haul hiking trail, Grande Randonnée No. 5 or Big Trail, from Amsterdam to Menton, crosses the ridge.
A Walk for Any Occasion
Nestled in the picturesque village of Kientzheim, Domaine Paul Blanck offers easy access to hiking trails, of which Philippe Blanck takes full advantage.
“Most of the time, I explore the Vosges on foot,” he says. “The valley of Kaysersberg offers varied landscapes which alternate vineyards and mountain landscapes. I often leave on foot from my house in Labaroche or from the winery in Kientzheim. The landscapes are beautiful and there are few walkers. The paths are very well marked and easy to access.”
Sometimes, he picks up some company on the way. “In Labaroche, I often meet deer, wild boar, roe deer,” says Blanck. “In Kaysersberg, from the top of the Schlossberg Grand Cru, the view of Kaysersberg is spectacular.”
But the real fun happens on the weekend.
“On Sundays, I have more time and can easily walk for five hours, touring the Wormsa Valley with the climb to the Hohneck,” he says. “The walk from the Wettstein pass to the Lac des Truites (Trout Lake) is rewarded by a meal at the farm inn of the Forlet, at the edge of the lake. The tour of the Petit Ballon in Wasserbourg is easy to do with children.